It doesn't look like much from the outside, but this relative newcomer has three things going for it: decent, creative home cooking, served up in huge portions; the friendly, informal service of the lads who run the place; and great value for money. On our last visit we started off with some nicely chargrilled vegetables and a sauté di cozze e vongole (clams and mussels), followed up by giant mounds of spaghetti with seppioline (baby cuttlefish) and carciofi (artichokes), and ended up paying €38 for two, wine and water included. The secondi, if you get that far, include a good fillet steak with green peppercorns. The upstairs room has a ringside view of the kitchen action. Unusually for Rome, there's a sala fumatori (smoking area) though it's confined to the nether regions. Book ahead.