This spit-and-sawdust, hole-in-the-wall trat offers one of Rome's great local dining experiences. There may or may not be a sign with the restaurant's name stuck inside the glass door; if it's fallen off, you'll just have to go by the street number. Inside, wooden tables are crammed into a couple of narrow rooms, and the volume generated by 20 simultaneous conversations with orders shouted over the top is matched only by the friendliness of the welcome. Sora Margherita is not for health freaks, but no one argues with serious Roman Jewish cooking at these prices. The classic pasta and meat dishes on offer include a superlative pasta e fagioli, as well as tonnarelli cacio e pepe and ossobuco washed down with rough-and-ready house wine. Dessert consists of good, home-made crostate (jam or ricotta tarts). In June and July, Sora Margherita closes Sunday and opens on Monday. Licensing laws mean that if you come for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays, you'll need to fill out a (free) membership card.