Café de Pels

The Nine Streets are littered with characterful bars, and this one is a lovely, old-style, tobacco-stained example with an intellectual bent. Once a Provo hangout, now writers, journalists and political groups regularly meet to chew the fat, and it's a nice spot even if you aren't feeling cerebral. On Sunday mornings, it's one of the few places to get breakfast, which makes it popular with the hangover crowd.