Perched on the edge of a dramatic clifftop on Bali’s Bukit Peninsula, with lush grounds punctuated by infinity pools that melt into the Indian Ocean, the Ungasan is a picture-perfect beach resort, the kind of stay that appears to have been plucked straight from the pages of a travel mag. And while the boutique coastal hotel offers luxury in spades – architecturally stunning accommodation with private butlers on hand to attend to your every whim – this is the kind of place where you can really breathe deep. It’s indulgent, yes, but there’s a laid-back, barefoot feel to the place, an energy that makes you feel totally at home.
What are the rooms like at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
Formed of seven independently owned five-bedroom villas, the Ungasan has been designed as the ultimate base for multi-generational holidays, combining the privacy of a private residence with the service (and on-site beach club, restaurant, etc.) of a high-end hotel.
The Ungasan’s status as a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World – a global network of some of the world’s most beautiful boutique hotels – is a sure-fire guarantee that you’re in for something special. That being said, nothing could quite prepare me for the White Lotus-level extravagance of the private villa that I called home during my stay. Each architecturally-stunning villa is home to five separate bedrooms, as well as expansive, airy sitting rooms and sprawling grounds dotted with frangipani trees that drop their flowers like confetti on the manicured lawns.
From my plush king-sized bed, I wake to uninterrupted ocean views, then shower in an open-air bathroom shaded by a canopy of bougainvilleas. I swim in my private pool before breakfast (the menu reads like a trendy Australian café menu, classic bacon and egg roll included), then curl up with a book on the sunken sofa in the vast, open-air lounge.
During my stay, I’m also allowed a peek around some of the other villas, and ‘Tamarama’ comes out as my favourite – a grand, colonial-style residence with heritage features and an internal courtyard framing a gorgeous tiled swimming pool.
Which are the best restaurants at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
With acclaimed Australian chef James Viles as culinary director, The Ungasan boasts some of Bali’s very best hotel dining options, with Sundays – the beloved beach club on the sand below the cliffs – the glittering jewel in its crown. Occupying the cove just below the villas, accessible via cable car or magical stone stairway, Sundays is one of the oldest beach clubs in Bali (originally named Finn’s). Here, rows of deep orange beanbags are shaded by cream canvas umbrellas, and traditional thatched roofs shade a buzzing dining space and several luxe VIP spaces. Hotel guests are afforded priority access to Sundays, and I’d suggest spending as much time here as you can – people travel from across Bali for the famous spiked slushies, and as a hotel guest you’re obliged to sample more than one flavour.
The menu at Sundays is casual and flavourful – the kind of food you want to eat when the appetite-suppressing effect of the tropical heat wears off, and you realise you haven’t eaten since breakfast. The perfectly umami prawn toast is a must-order, as are the loaded waffle fries with sticky beef and kimchi sauce. There are also lighter bites, like fresh sashimi and a zingy prawn and papaya salad, alongside classics like burgers, woodfired pizzas, and tacos.
Upstairs, Waatu is a refined, fire-powered yakitori restaurant serving a Japanese-inspired menu cooked over coals. Come here for a few rounds of yakitori or a flame-charred steak with salad before heading to bed.
What is the service like at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
Each villa is hosted by a dedicated private butler, and mine – the kind-eyed, endlessly generous Darna – has been working at The Ungasan since the resort opened more than a decade ago. The fourteen years of experience, combined with his naturally kind-hearted and thoughtful disposition, made Darna the most incredible host, and based on my brief interactions with other members of the team, I’m confident he’s not an outlier.
Is there a pool at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
I’d be willing to bet that this particular corner of coastline is home to the highest number of infinity pools per square metre in the whole of Asia, if not the world. The communal lawn in front of the restaurant is framed by two curved pools lined with rows of comfy beanbags and daybeds, and each of the seven villa complexes is home to at least one world-class swimming spot. Another perk of the private villa lifestyle is that the swimming pools never close, and on my final night at The Ungasan I go for a long, slow swim after dinner as the moon rises from the east. It’s the biggest full moon of the year – a huge, golden orb smiling at me across the valley. I’m not sure how long I stayed there, resting my head against the side of the pool staring into her eyes, but I can tell you I slept like a baby that night under the warm glow of the Purnama.
Is there a gym at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
You’ll find the cool, well-equipped gym in the communal area behind the tennis court. It’s kitted out with everything you need for a workout, but The Ungasan will wire you into holiday mode, shifting fitness goals far out of view. With daily yoga sessions by the ocean, swimming pools at every turn, and water sports equipment waiting down at the beach club, you’ll easily stay active during your stay – and the sublime beauty of the place (combined with any spa treatments or healing sessions you decide to book during your stay) will mean you’ll leave feeling lighter, no treadmill required.
Is there a spa at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
There’s a beautiful hotel spa on site that’s open to the public, but most guest treatments take place in the comfort of your private villa. On the final morning of my stay, after a healing session with a traditional Balinese healer, I’m treated to an incredible 60-minute yoga massage. On a fold-out bed in my private room, with far-reaching views across the ocean, a talented therapist stretches me and pulls me and folds me into a pretzel. If you’re storing deep tension in your body, this treatment will fix you – I wasn’t aware I needed it, but I left the room feeling three inches taller.
What’s the area like around The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
The immediate area is relatively remote – you’re in a charming clifftop village rather than a city, so if you’re looking for a hotel within stumbling distance of the island’s bars and clubs, look elsewhere. That being said, the buzzy, bohemian hub of Uluwatu is just under 30 minutes’ drive from the hotel, so you can head here to get your drinking and dining fix if you’re able to pull yourself away from Sundays. Our picks? Head to local favourite KALA for Greek-inspired meze, YUKI for expertly crafted Japanese plates in a modern, buzzy setting, or Osteria Luna for coastal Italian fare (and all-day Aperitivos).
Why should you book a stay at The Ungasan Clifftop Resort?
With its unique configuration, The Ungasan has been designed for multi-generational escapes, and I can’t imagine anything more magical than waking up here with the people I love the most.
Address: Jl. Pantai Sel. Gau, Ungasan, Uluwatu, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80361, Indonesia
Price per night: From IDR 7,855,735 (£352)
Book now: Over here.
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