Above: Ginza Mitsukoshi
Fans of manga and anime in Tokyo will find paradise in Nakano Broadway, a shopping arcade packed with stores where you can get comics, games, T-shirts, posters and figurines that made my nerdiest side spring into full bloom. Music lovers can’t miss a stop in Disk Union, a chain of music stores where each one focuses on a different music style or genre. I visited a couple of them: soul and Japanese music. In the latter I discovered Pink Lady, a female duo who made it big in the late ’70s and early ’80s. Their song ‘UFO’ is spectacular!
The bar that especially wowed me was Lupin
, a former dive and hangout for writers, photographers and artists of every ilk, where the waiters prove with their mere existence the proverbial Japanese longevity. Take note if you’ve been missing a public space to puff – though don’t let it put you off if you haven’t – this is among the bars and cafés where you’re allowed to smoke.