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For years the city's only representative of genuine French cuisine, Brasserie Jo may still be its most authentic. If it's les plats classiques you crave - piquant yet succulent steak tartare; bubbly, beefy onion soup; profiteroles awash in chocolate sauce - then this big, bright Back Bay workhorse is still one of your best bets. And the bar - whose design points, just obviously enough, to post-war Paris - is a genuinely cosy affair on a wintry late afternoon.