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true gentleman and his smiling wife run this sweetly modest Peruvian-Brazilian side-street find. Still a favorite with neighbourhood couples after 20 years, it offers credible ceviche and incredible albondigas rellenas (meatballs stuffed with chopped olives, eggs and peppers). Robust beer-braised lamb tastes even better with a side of tostones, while the wine list is very reasonably priced.