Brightly painted yet dimly lit, this long, narrow cantina is a laid-back, inexpensive place to grab a bite. The kitchen's strength isn't Tex-Mex grub, but the more refined cookery of central and coastal Mexico. Skip the chips and start with terrific ejotes al mojo de ajo (green beans charred with slivers of garlic, sea salt and lime), then move on to the mole especial.