Since it opened in the mid-1990s, Gargoyles has gone from Davis Square secret to suave foodie fave. In a dining room as dim, hushed and plush as the bar is airy and gregarious, guests are constantly surprised by the menu's daring. Smoked blueberries? Mimolette dust? Sweet-potato ice-cream? Even more surprising is that the kitchen crew has the talent to carry off the majority of its experiments.