Ipswich Custom (CLOSED)

We’re not used to South End openings happening with zero fanfare, but that’s just what happened when Jake Elmets, late of M.F. Dulock, took over the space formerly occupied by Merrill & Co. without so much as a press release or a functioning website. Don’t count on Ipswich Custom staying under the radar for long, however. Elmets did a stint at the legendary Chez Panisse, and his passion for well-sourced ingredients and authentic cooking techniques is on full display. The rotating menu is deliciously eccentric: alphabet soup, lamb collar and lasagna appear one night; tuna belly, roasted olives and flank steak the next. Given Elmets’ butchery background, a charcuterie tasting is a must, as is a dip into the cheeses sourced from Italy and Upstate New York. “Expect a leisurely paced meal,” proclaims the menu each night—we’re happy to sit back and let Elmets dictate our evening.