Loyal Nine

Restaurants, American Cambridge
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Loyal Nine
Photograph: Courtesy Loyal Nine/Cody O'Loughlin

“Colonial-inspired fare”? Doesn’t that mean baked beans and brown bread? As it happens, Loyal Nine has a terrific bread program and a delicious bean appetizer (fried soldier beans), but this is not your great-great-great-great grandmother’s cuisine. Rather, Loyal Nine takes inspiration from yesteryear preparations. Ham is roasted with chicories and fermented molasses; fluke gets poached in duck fat; a vegetarian entrée starts with a grain porridge as its base. Befitting a spot so reverential of New England ingredients, seafood gets more than its fair shake, with poached shrimp, marinated mussels and scup tartare just three of the “on ice” appetizers. If you’re feeling at all intimidated, simply opt for the shared supper—the kitchen will choose dinner for the entire table. The popover-centric brunch and takeaway morning café will both expand your before-noon repertoire.

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Venue name: Loyal Nine
Contact:
Address: 660 Cambridge St
Boston

Cross street: between Cardinal Medeiros Ave and Fulkerson St
Opening hours: Mon 8am-4pm; Tue-Thu 8am-4pm, 5:30-11pm; Fri, Sat 8am-4pm, 5:30pm-1am; Sun 8am-4pm, 5:30-9pm
Transport: Inman Square/East Cambridge 69 Bus to Cardinal Medeiros
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