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Even during its regular dinner service, New Shanghai offers dim sum–style dining. The kitchen’s dumplings (steamed or fried) and buns are among the area’s best, while an array of cold appetizers—pickled, salted and smoked—beckons the bold of palate. Other intriguing options include giant-sized lion’s head meatballs (juicy ground pork in a fine gravy) and sweet-and-spicy garlic pork, served in spongy rice-flour “pockets.”