In Central Square, Pagu is helmed by Tracy Chang, a wunderkind who got her start at O Ya and made a name for herself while manning Guchi's Midnight Ramen, an underground ramen pop-up. The sleek, two-story loft space is patrolled by familial servers. Even the name is a treat: Japanese for “pug” and a homage to Chang’s own canine master, Phoebe. But it’s the food that’s the ultimate revelation here: ikura avocado toast, pork belly bao, sea scallop sashimi and comfort fare like Chang’s childhood fried rice. Order the prix fixe menu or go à la carte. Chang’s famed ramen features house-made alkaline noodles, pork belly, umami oil, nori, and a six-minute egg.