Oleana set the stage for Ana Sortun’s second spot, Sarma, which today is arguably more popular than its predecessor and just as friendly to vegetarians. Among the nearly 40 Mediterranean small plates on the menu are salmon ceviche, baked feta, cauliflower fatteh and Tunisian steak tartare—but that’s just today, as the menu changes according to the seasons. The regular off-menu specials, however, always remain the same and are brought around by the congenial wait staff dim sum-style (if the fried chicken is available, you take it—no questions asked). As for the cocktail program: Be prepared to order a drink boasting allspice and to then be blown away by it.
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