How in Kennedy’s name to replace Locke-Ober, the revered, wood-paneled downtown institution that hosted a million three-martini lunches? For starters, Yvonne’s has saved what matters: the 19th-century mahogany bar and the same clubby ambiance. But the new supper club—named for what used to be Locke Ober’s members-only club downstairs—otherwise sports a decidedly au courant vibe. Creative small plates include crispy tater cubes, chicken quinoa meatballs, baked oysters and popcorn brulee. Large-scale (i.e. scorpion bowl-sized) cocktails like the Moscow Mule are lovingly crafted and best enjoyed in the separate Library Bar, a tome-tiered respite that invites you to imbibe like a Brahmin.
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