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Budapest’s bustling Jewish Quarter is rich in history yet constantly developing. In this vibrant area – the city’s most densely populated – design shops mix with bakeries, nightclubs and three beautiful synagogues. The Jewish district is also home to laid-back restaurants that serve up excellent food, whether Israeli, Mediterranean or Indian. And as well as the storied ruin bars, youthful hangouts like scruffy Beat on the Brat, arty Kisüzem and beery Fekete Kutya are all great fun.
Once the dreaded wartime ghetto, the Budapest Jewish Quarter’s walls these days depict happier historical episodes. Murals on busy Rumbach Sebestyén Utca include one of Austro-Hungarian aristocrat ‘Sissi’ and another depicting the ‘Match of the Century’, when Hungary’s ‘golden team’ thrashed England at Wembley. Also mentionworthy is Gozsdu Udvar, a network of decent mainstream bars and restaurants.
Its 21st-century transformation has not gone without local grumblings: a thankfully unsuccessful referendum has even been held over local closing hours. But nothing can touch the Jewish District – not grumpy nénik, not globalisation, not even ‘strongman’ Viktor Orbán.
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