National Museum
Photograph: Shutterstock
Photograph: Shutterstock

The best things to do in Budapest’s Palace District

Visit the stately National Museum, search for rare vinyl and tuck into a splendid breakfast

Peterjon Cresswell
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Recently included among Time Out’s list of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods, the Palace District gained its allure when the landed gentry kept their Budapest pied-à-terres in order to attend parliamentary sessions at the National Museum next door.

Since then, much has changed, and not only the relandscaped gardens surrounding the stately museum. Cool cafés, funky boutiques and the odd gallery characterise the urban landscape, recently augmented by the arrival of Time Out Market Budapest one tram stop or a five-minute walk away on Blaha Lujza tér.

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Words by Peterjon Cresswell, based in Budapest. At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelinesThis guide includes affiliate links, which have no influence on our editorial content. For more information, see our affiliate guidelines

1. National Museum

What is it? Established over the course of a decade from 1837 on, the Hungarian National Museum survived flood and the 1848 revolution to become the largest museum in the country, lending its name to the boulevard it sits on. It features an extensive collection of archaeological findings and relics from prehistory to the Communist era, with a regular agenda of niche temporary exhibitions.

Why we love it Key exhibits include the Coronation Mantle dating from the time of Szent István, Hungary's first king, 1,100 years ago, and artefacts salvaged from Hungary's transformative defeat against the Ottomans at the Battle of Mohács in 1526. The permanent exhibition is particularly strong on the urban development of Budapest from the mid-1800s onwards – during which time, this building served as the Upper House of Parliament.

Time Out tip: Relandscaped in recent years, the museum gardens are an attraction in their own right, with their own café run by the city's most venerable confectioners, Auguszt.

Address: Múzeum körút 14-16, 1088 Budapest

Opening hours: Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed Mon

Expect to pay: Ft 3,500 (€8.75). All exhibitions inc temporary Ft 5,800 (€14.50)

📍Discover more great museums in Budapest

2. Brody House

What is it? This long-established stylish private lodging has converted its attractive downstairs space, courtyard and all, into a café/bar and comedy venue – while allowing visitors to admire original art while enjoying high-quality dishes.

Why we love it Once the domain of artists-in-residence, Brody House has not lost its cachet or credibility while operating as a regular eatery – it still feels private and ever so slightly exclusive, a bit like that fantasy hotel in the John Wick franchise.

Time Out tip: In its tour around the globe, the breakfast menu stops off in the Nordic countries for a Scandi Brunch of salmon gravlax and caviar, reflecting the provenance of Brody’s affable Swedish co-founder.

Address: Bródy Sándor utca 10, 1088 Budapest

Opening timesBreakfast & brunch daily 8am-3.30pm. Evening events from around 7pm-8pm

Expect to pay: Brody royale of poached egg on sourdough Ft 4,800 (€12). Scandi Brunch Ft 6,200 (€15.70).

📍More great breakfast and brunch places in Budapest

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3. Taste Hungary

What is it? A labour of love for a married couple who met while working on a cruise ship in the Caribbean, Taste Hungary combines the talents of Carolyn and Gábor Bánfalvi, and their expertise where food and wine are concerned. With their tours, books and events here such as Tasting Table Budapest, the pair offer visitors an immersive experience in discovering the cuisine and wines of Hungary.

Why we love it Unpretentious yet serious about in its mission to promote and showcase Hungarian food and wine, Taste Hungary is above all an enjoyable experience that will leave you far more knowledgeable about the country you’re visiting than when you arrived.

Time Out tip: If you don’t have time to peruse the selection of wines in the cellar and tasting room at Bródy Sándor utca 9, there’s a more conventional shop nearby at No.22, the stock constantly refreshed with new arrivals.

Address: Bródy Sándor utca 9 & 22, 1088 Budapest

Opening times: Shop at No.22 Mon-Sat noon-8pm. Cellar at No.9 by appointment. Most tasting times at 3pm & 6pm

Expect to pay: Wine, cheese & charcuterie tasting $59/non-wine $40. Deluxe wine tasting $99

📍More fun places to shop in Budapest

4. Ervin Szabó Library

What is it? The most palatial abode in the whole Palace District, the Wenckheim Palace was built in ornate Baroque style for the wealthy landowner of the same name in the late 1800s and today houses the Ervin Szabó Library. A day pass allows you to access the building and admire its magnificent ceilings, spiral staircases and intricately carved furnishings.

Why we love it With Budapest’s most prestigious university, ELTE, nearby, there’s a constant atmosphere of keen study – this is no moribund landmark but a living, breathing public facility, revered and treated with respect.

Time Out tip: Seek out the 1972 film Bluebeard, starring Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, partly filmed in this building. The location allowed Taylor to host her star-studded 40th birthday party at Budapest’s Hotel Intercontinental.

Address: Szabó Ervin tér 1, 1088 Budapest

Opening hours: Mon-Tue, Thur-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-4pm

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5. Főfotó

What is it? In thrall to the lens, Főfotó in the heart of the Palace District celebrates the heritage and art of photography while serving best-in-class drinks to a savvy clientele. Exhibitions change monthly, films, talks and presentations are regular events and those drinks just keep on coming.

Why we love it In a world of selfies and throwaway culture, Főfotó cherishes the age of analogue and the thrill of discovery. Take a gander at the décor around the photo shop as you walk in – that's the original sign from one of Hungary's oldest film-making fatories.

Time Out tip: Although it's in a busy bar area, Főfotó is easily missed – look out for the neon arrow sign and climb a short set of metal steps.

Address: Baross utca 10, 1085 Budapest

Opening hours: Mon-Fri 11am-midnight. Closed Sat-Sun

Expect to pay: Regular Budapest prices for decent coffee, beer and wine

📍Other great bars in Budapest

6. Typo Showroom

What is it? A carefully curated selection of vintage clothes fills this colourful store on lively Krúdy Gyula utca, a long-term fixture on Budapest’s alternative fashion circuit.

Why we love it Whether it’s a shirtdress, a tote bag or a pair of shoes, you’re bound to find something funky at Typo Showroom, and at affordable prices.

Time Out tip: Keep a watch on the shop’s Facebook page for whenever new stock arrives – you might just pop in at the right time.

Address: Krúdy Gyula utca 9, 1088 Budapest

Opening times: Mon-Fri 11am-8pm. Sat 10am-7pm, Sun 10am-4pm

Expect to pay: All kinds of prices but you can probably walk out with a whole new look for under Ft 15,000 (€38)

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7. Lumen Café

What is it? The so-called Big Lumen comprises a spacious café and leafy courtyard, where excellent breakfasts, lunches, dinners and fine drinks are served, and occasional live music staged.

Why we love it A relaxed spot for a mid-morning coffee or healthy meal, the Big Lumen gets buzzy after dark, integral to the lively scene on and around Krúdy Gyula utca and Bródy Sándor utca, between which you’ll find this doorway.

Time Out tip: A five-minute stroll away is the so-called Small Lumen, a tiny café with a large terrace that merges with others to transform the cobbled square of Mikszáth Kálmán tér into an alfresco drinking hub.

Address: Horánszky utca 5, 1085 Budapest

Opening times: Daily 10am-midnight

Expect to pay: BLT sandwich Ft 3,250 (€8.30). Stew with sourdough bread Ft 3,450 (€8.75)

8. Kalóz Records

What is it? A cosy hideway lined with pre-loved vinyl, painstakingly categorised for selective browsing. CDs, cassettes, fanzines and VHS videotapes also stocked.

Why we love it Unlike other secondhand record stores in Budapest, Kalóz (‘Pirate’) doesn’t limit its range but happily displays rare Beatles LP, vintage club cuts and new wave faves.

Time Out tip: Take a look in the window for what’s come in recently – it’s usually out on public display, luring in the plentiful footfall in this street of trendy coffee shops and outlets for cycle repair.

Address: Bródy Sándor utca 25, 1088 Budapest

Opening times: Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat noon-6pm. Closed Sun

Expect to pay: Don’t expect to pick up that rare Beatles pressing on Soviet-era Melodiya for a song – the staff here know their onions – but you’ll pay a fair price for what’s on offer.

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9. Ani Molnár Gallery

What is it? Experienced gallerist Ani Molnár has run this hub of (mainly Hungarian and regional) contemporary art for the best part of two decades, the artists featured also showing at major fairs, biennials and institutions such as MoMA and the Pompidou Centre.

Why we love it Molnár makes a point of promoting young female artists wherever possible, her international connections allowing them to use Budapest as a springboard before showing in Vienna, London and beyond.

Time Out tip: An extra space a few houses down at No.22 is earmarked specifically for young female artists under the title of am projects.

Address: Bródy Sándor utca 36, 1088 Budapest

Opening times: Tue-Fri noon-6pm, Sat 11am-5pm. Closed Sun, Mon

Expect to pay: Bring a chequebook and an open mind, and you might just find something special

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