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The Porteño Essence Served at the Table: Classic and Modern Bodegones

From XL milanesa to signature dishes, Buenos Aires’ tradition reinvents itself at every table.

Soledad Vallejos
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“How about we go to a bodegón?” That’s how groups of friends or families often settle differences when they can’t agree on where to eat. Because beyond anyone’s preferences for a particular type of cuisine, it’s hard for one of these dining rooms not to meet everyone’s expectations. The bodegón menu pays tribute to the most typical dishes of Argentine cuisine, those recipes that, almost without exception, remind us of childhood around the family table.

With generous portions inherited from immigrant gastronomy, bodegones are more popular than ever. But in the past decade, a new trend has emerged to revalue and modernize this great Italo-Hispanic-Porteño tradition.

Alongside the traditional bodegones, with fileteado signs, soccer jerseys hanging on the walls, or the classics housed in historic city buildings, new venues have appeared: dimly lit dining rooms with a contemporary approach to cooking, using fine-dining techniques where even a simple milanesa, for example, may be cooked sous-vide for ten hours before being breaded and fried. Here are our favorite milangas in the city.

This blend of tradition and renewal is part of Buenos Aires’ gastronomic identity that Visit BUE aims to showcase to the world: a city where the lifelong puchero coexists with the reinvented milanesa, the checkered-tablecloth bodegón with the contemporary cantina that pays homage to those timeless flavors.

1. Mengano

Chef Facundo Kelemen leads the kitchen at Mengano, a modern bodegón that explores Buenos Aires’ bar food with a contemporary vision and techniques. The restaurant is set in a renovated casa chorizo, with an open kitchen at the back of the dining room that also features a counter for dining. The décor includes family photos hung by Kelemen himself: “My grandfather was a soccer player for Racing, and we had many photos of him at home. Since soccer is always present in bodegones, we decided to frame them,” he explains.

The menu offers twelve to fourteen dishes, of which five or six form the backbone. Though staples, they are never static, as the chef tweaks them depending on seasonal products. “What I serve must be tasty and fresh,” says Kelemen, who placed the restaurant among Latin America’s 50 Best. Highlights include the spicy beef empanada, fried so it bursts with liquid flavor in the mouth, and a version of revuelto Gramajo with potato foam instead of fries, served with slices of ham.

Rice also plays a central role: a hybrid between the Catalan socarrat and the traditional Argentine seafood or chicken rice. “It’s carnaroli rice cooked like risotto, then toasted as if it were socarrat—the crispy crust at the bottom of paella. The result is 30% crunchy and 70% cooked,” he explains. “It’s a mix of Italian and Spanish cuisine, but with local products. To me, that’s the truest definition of a bodegón.”

Where: Cabrera 5172, Palermo.

2. Puchero

On a corner in Villa Luro, Puchero defines itself as a contemporary cantina. Chef Santiago Méndez runs the kitchen with a philosophy of “working with memory and flavor.”

The space combines classic materials with modern details: wood moldings, a restored sky-blue door, and stainless-steel windows that flood the room with natural light. It seats 65 on the ground floor, 32 on the first-floor terrace, and 60 more on the heated sidewalk deck. The bar, with no cover charge, is a strong point with classic vermouths and personalized service, ideal for lunch or dinner.

The menu is extensive: from cheese and charcuterie boards to starters like braised beef empanadas, provoletas with bacon, and stuffed fritters. There are also risottos (Spanish octopus or beet), casseroles, homemade pastries, paella for two, XL milanesas, flambéed meats, vegan dishes, and fresh house-made pasta. A standout is the chipá filled with crispy sweetbreads and poached egg. For dessert, try the pistachio–passion fruit cheesecake, or classics like flan with dulce de leche and cream, vigilante, or tiramisù.

Where: Av. Rivadavia 10300, Villa Luro.

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3. Pepito

Pepito is one of Buenos Aires’ oldest bodegones, with 75 years of tradition. A classic on Montevideo Street just steps from Corrientes Avenue, its name comes from founder Manuel Cardín’s Asturian roots: in Asturias, people often called each other “Pepito” or “Pepín.”

Known for generous portions, Pepito offers milanesas in S, M, and L sizes—all meant for sharing. The menu also includes pasta, grilled meats, empanadas, spinach fritters, tortillas, calamari, puchero, and other home-style classics. A tourist favorite is the “Bife Malevo,” a ribeye with roasted peppers, fried egg, French fries, and golden provoleta.

“Locals come, but also many tourists from neighboring countries like Brazil, Uruguay, Chile, Paraguay, and Peru. They come to experience Argentina and our customs, including our food,” says longtime waiter Hernando Ochoa. “Many people love Argentine beef, and Pepito is a specialist.”

Where: Montevideo 383, CABA.

4. Mondongo & Coliflor

Mondongo & Coliflor arrived in Parque Chacabuco and set up in a space with over 100 years of history. It’s a neighborhood cantina run by four friends—Arnaldo Roperti, José Villar, Quique Yafuso, and Cabito Massa Alcántara—united by their love for traditional porteño cuisine and their goal of reviving forgotten classics like tripe stew, homemade pasta, grilled meats, milanesas, and sandwiches.

They reject modern dining stereotypes: “We believe beauty lies in flavor, not in arranging things with tweezers,” says Massa Alcántara. “We want to be a neighborhood cantina that expresses, through simple food, the essence of porteño gastronomy.”

Everything is made in-house, from pasta to pickles and preserves. Menu highlights include tripe, beef, and tortilla empanadas, Russian salad with crackers, vinaigrette tongue, grilled provoleta with arugula and confit tomato, and their emblematic potato tortilla. Another standout is braised pork shank, cooked for eight hours and served with cheesy potato aligot.

Where: Del Barco Centenera 1698, Parque Chacabuco.

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5. Bodegón Caballito

Now nearly four years old, this neighborhood staple started as a small club buffet selling two signature dishes: potato tortilla and flank steak. Soon, it became so popular that tables are hard to find. To ease the wait, the owner himself brings complimentary snacks and drinks straight from the kitchen.

They doubled their seating capacity from 24 to 48, plus sidewalk tables. While tortillas and flank steak remain favorites, other hits include pizza-style matambre and their specialty: beef round milanesa with gnocchi in pesto cream. “We strive to offer quality dishes at fair prices, as a good bodegón should,” says Mauro, one of the owners. “With meat and wine, you’ll spend around 22,000–23,000 pesos.”

There are no reservations—just walk in and enjoy the family spirit. “Here, people celebrate birthdays, anniversaries, all sorts of events,” Mauro adds. “We focus on giving people a good time, not just maximizing profit. That’s why we take care of details and treat customers to beer, wine, empanadas, even grilled chinchulines.”

Where: Nicasio Oroño 566, Caballito.

6. Abreboca

Artisanal charcuterie, an Andalusian-style patio, and a modern, dynamic menu—that’s the essence of Abreboca, a neo-pulpería in Chacarita. It celebrates Argentine cuisine while embracing the social ritual of sharing a table.

With its own charcuterie cellar—rare in Buenos Aires—Abreboca explores national flavors with dishes like Brussels sprouts in honey vinaigrette, lamb sausage with bean purée and pickled pears, blood sausage with fried egg, and a range of pickles and cured meats. Bread baskets come with country bread and fried cakes.

Mains include ribeye with chimichurri butter and sweet potato pie. Desserts are equally creative: corn flan with mascarpone cream and dulce de leche toffee, pancakes with smoked dulce de leche, and sambayón with caramelized almonds. Abreboca’s philosophy is to define national identity through food, reminding locals of their roots while sharing culture with visitors.

Where: Fraga 541, Chacarita.

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7. Ostende

Inspired by the 1970s and named after Argentina’s seaside resort, Ostende in Colegiales evokes nostalgia with seafood dishes and homemade Italian pasta.

Its corner location features vintage green formica tables and retro chairs. The menu includes Neapolitan milanesa with tomato sauce and mozzarella (single or shareable portions), crispy rice with shrimp and chestnuts, and pine mushroom risotto. The cocktail program, designed by bartender Vir Calderón, is another highlight, with house blends like Vermú Ostende.

Where: Virrey Loreto 3303, Colegiales.

8. Olivera

In Parque Avellaneda, Olivera is a hidden-gem bodegón and bar that honors 80 years of neighborhood tradition. Once a Spanish immigrant café, it now serves authentic, generous porteño fare at fair prices.

The menu features empanadas (tripe, beef, chicken, vegetable, mozzarella), spinach fritters with aioli, and artisanal pastas served in edible bread baskets. Options include pumpkin ravioli, braised beef sorrentinos, gnocchi, and egg tagliatelle.

Where: Av. Olivera 901, Parque Avellaneda.

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9. El Globo

Since 1908, El Globo has been a Montserrat institution. This historic Spanish-style bodegón wows diners with its stained glass, marble steps, bronze details, and chandeliers.

Its star dish is puchero, a hearty stew of pork, beef ribs, chicken, and ten types of vegetables. The menu also offers a wide range of meats, pasta, desserts, and fine Argentine wines.

Over the decades, countless artists, writers, athletes, and celebrities have dined here. The restaurant’s name pays tribute to Jorge Newbery, Argentina’s aviation pioneer.

Where: Hipólito Yrigoyen 1199, Montserrat.

10. Del Río Cantina

One of the city’s newest spots, Del Río Cantina in Parque Saavedra combines good cooking with neighborhood spirit. Its menu features identity-driven dishes and homemade pasta, like gratin gnocchi with provolone cream, cavatelli with ragù, or spinach–provolone panzottis in saffron cream.

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The space has blue-and-white checkered tablecloths, modern décor, and three distinct dining areas: a cozy corner, a bright room, and an outdoor patio perfect for spring.

The minutas are crowd-pleasers: meatballs with purée, chicken Maryland, pork flank in mustard sauce, and sweetbreads with scallions and mushrooms. For meat lovers, the ribeye with fried eggs is a must.

Where: Av. García del Río 2959, Saavedra.

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