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Kleinsky’s, the Sea Point deli famous for its hand-rolled bagels, hot pastrami on rye, rugelach and Russian honey cake, has opened a new branch at the V&A Waterfront, taking the cult Cape Town brand into one of the city’s most high-profile restaurant and retail destinations.
Founded in Sea Point in 2014 by brothers Adam and Joel Klein, the inspiration for Kleinsky’s came from the famous Jewish delis of New York. The original Regent Road store quickly became a local favourite, building a loyal following around slow-fermented bagels, properly made pastrami and deli classics reimagined for Cape Town.
“The delis of New York are so intrinsically linked to New York culture that they’re adopted by everyone,” says Adam Klein. “Bagels and coffee are the New York breakfast of champions.”
Introducing that deli culture to Cape Town has always been part of the ambition for Kleinsky’s, and was the driver behind opening a store in the V&A Waterfront; a space known for its stiff competition and no-nonsense rents, as much as the serious foot traffic.
“We’ve always said we’re a New York-style deli, and we try to be as authentic as the delis you find there, but we also want to introduce what we do to a broader audience, and that’s why the V&A is such a great move for us,” says Klein. “We didn’t want to only be connected to these very specific neighbourhoods, so to be in a place like the Waterfront is a great visual space for us… It allows us to introduce the brand to people who haven’t experienced it before. It’s a real mix of locals and tourists.”
Kleinsky’s has grown steadily from its Sea Point roots, adding stores in Johannesburg and London, as well as the recent launch of Kleinsky’s Constantia at High Constantia Centre, which brought the brand’s bagels, deli sandwiches and early-dinner offering to the southern suburbs.
The new V&A store has a slightly smaller menu than the larger Sea Point and Constantia restaurants, but that is entirely intentional. Rather than trying to be everything to everyone, this new branch focuses on the plates that have made Kleinsky’s famous: bagels, sandwiches, rye bread, deli bakes and New York-style classics.
“The new store is really about specialising in what we’re known for,” says Klein. “Especially in a place like the Waterfront, where there is so much variety, it’s easy to blend in. We want to stand out and be the best at what we do.”
Central to that is the new open kitchen, with the bakery behind glass allowing diners to see the bagels being boiled, seeded and baked in real time.
“That’s very common at a New York bagel store: to see it all happening on site,” says Klein, adding that Kleinsky’s has expanded its range of cream cheeses for the Waterfront store, putting them on display in classic deli fashion.
Expect around 10 flavours on offer at any one time, from familiar staples alongside new additions such as biltong, rosemary and honey; spring onion and lamb bacon; pistachio; and blueberry cream cheese.
“The sweet cream cheeses are really popular overseas,” says Klein.
The focus on craft extends beyond the bagels. At the Waterfront, you’ll be able to see the bakers rolling rugelach, making babka and preparing the Russian honey cake that has become one of the brand’s best-loved desserts.
“We’re really taking the items that people know and love most about Kleinsky’s, putting them front and forward, and showcasing them,” says Klein.
The new store has seating for around 50 people inside, with a further 40 seats on the outside terrace overlooking the harbour... another plus for the new store. And, as with the other Kleinsky’s branches, the design takes cues from the area while keeping the familiar Kleinsky’s aesthetic.
“We always try to fit in with the landscape and the area, but with this store we said: it needs to feel like you’re sitting in New York,” says Klein. “So we really pushed the décor. The booths have been refined, along with the deli counter, the deli fridge and the display. It has kept all of the Kleinsky’s elements, but in a way that feels special.”
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