It's called Sult and it's the latest addition to downtown Cascais. Inaugurated on March 13th, it's the restaurant of Brazilian chef Nelson Soares, who already has a Sult in Rio de Janeiro for four years. Dedicated to Italian cuisine, especially with transalpine inspiration, it presents a creative menu that also incorporates various Portuguese products, especially those linked to the sea.
Formerly, there was a restaurant called Fora de Pé there. Now, the sophisticated yet relaxed Sult focuses on comfort and proximity. In Rio de Janeiro, the kitchen is completely open. There, since they couldn't tear down the structural wall separating the kitchen from the dining area, they opted for a differentiating solution: they have a triangular table at the kitchen entrance where they finalize the preparation and plating of all dishes, in view of the customers.
"Hunger", from Botafogo to Cascais
Nelson Soares's partner had already been living here for about six years, and the chef—who had visited several European countries but had never been to Portugal—fell in love as soon as he set foot in Lisbon and Cascais about three years ago. It wasn't difficult to convince him to move to open a new Sult. It has 48 seats in the dining room, plus 25 on the terrace.
Some of the dishes came directly from Rio de Janeiro, where the restaurant became an icon in the upscale neighborhood of Botafogo. It's located on a side street off the well-known Arnaldo Quintela, which this year was voted one of the 10 coolest streets in the world by Time Out. The Brazilian Sult was also recognized in the 50 Best Discovery list and in the Louis Vuitton City Guide, just to give a few examples of the distinctions that have already made it a landmark in the city of Rio de Janeiro.
The dish that made the biggest difference, emphasizes Nelson Soares, was the Sult lasagna (€26), which came to Cascais and is served with Parmigiano Reggiano fondue. The chef was inspired by the lasagna of the renowned chef Massimo Bottura, whose recipe focuses only on the "edge" of the lasagna, and he created his own version.
From a short menu, you can order dishes such as fregola with octopus and bone marrow (€32), a surprising classic pasta from Sardinia made from semolina; roasted kid (€28), a roasted suckling goat served deboned and pressed with sweet potato purée and grilled bimi; asparagus and mascarpone tortellini (€26), with pecorino sauce, egg yolks, and truffles; or confit duck risotto (€28), served with foie gras and porcini mushrooms.
You also have spaghetti with razor clams from the Sado River and bottarga (€28); pappardelle with ragu made with slowly cooked Alentejo black pork cheek, tomatoes, and red wine (€24); or grilled catch of the day with mini vegetables and guanciale beurre blanc (€32).
Although the cuisine is Italian, there is an aura of French style here: the natural flavor of the few basic ingredients is emphasized, with a maximum of five per dish, and fats are reduced, with lighter foods. The Nordic minimalism also makes its influence felt, with the Danish restaurant Mangia being an acknowledged reference for the Brazilian chef. Sult is, in fact, the Danish word for "hunger."
We also can't forget about the starters, which are not to be missed. Try the arancini with alheira sausage, served with Azeitão cheese (€16 for four units); the lulinhas à gremolata, sautéed with confit cherry tomatoes (€20); the "Cacio e Pepe" mushrooms, grilled with pecorino romano fondue (€20); the carne cruda with hazelnuts and grana padano (€22), a classic from the Piemonte region, which is essentially the Italian version of beef tartare; or the burrata with confit tomatoes and wild rocket (€18).
Sult also offers a selection of cured meats curated by the chef, which are sliced just seconds before they reach the table. Another great asset of the restaurant is its extensive and original wine selection, prominently displayed in the dining room, featuring many references from small producers—some of them local—as well as natural and biodynamic wines.
Of course, don't leave without trying one of the desserts, whether it's the pistachio tiramisu (€12); the chocolate and hazelnut praline cake (€10); the lemon and basil tart (€8); or the ricotta and strawberry tart with balsamic (€8).
Sult has just arrived in Portugal but is already thinking about its next steps: hosting special events at the chef's table located in the dining room in Cascais, where guests can also sit for a meal; and a new Sult, complete with a beach club at a hotel in Tróia.
Rua das Flores, 10A, Cascais. Ter-Sáb 19.00-23.00