22 hotels in Cascais you must visit

At the end of the 19th century, King D. Carlos chose Cascais as his summer retreat – and the town was never the same again. Around the bay and the Cidadela fortress, his aristocratic friends built mansions and palaces to keep him company during the warmer months.

One of them was Francisco Trindade Baptista, who could never have imagined that, more than a century later, his romantic-style home – with its balconies, rococo windows and ornate doors – would become a sleek, luxurious boutique hotel crowned with a façade by Vhils (Alexandre Farto).

Today, Artsy Cascais has 19 rooms spread across three floors, plus an unexpected rooftop reserved for guests, complete with a small heated pool. Art is everywhere – lining the corridors, filling the bedrooms and animating the common areas, including the irreverent Library Bar by the entrance, where guests check in, work, read, snack or sip a drink throughout the day.

Behind the Casa das Histórias Paula Rego, Chalet Ficalho has always stood out for its distinctive architecture. Since construction began in the late 19th century, its rounded grey-green roofs, salmon-hued stone walls, red shutters framing tall windows and botanical garden filled with exotic species (the Countess of Ficalho’s father was one of the founders of Lisbon’s Botanical Garden and designed this one in its image) have captivated passers-by.

Now, you can finally step inside. The fourth and fifth generations of the family have transformed Maria Josefa de Mello’s former holiday home into a guesthouse that evokes the golden years of Portuguese high society. The nine rooms are spread across the first floor and the attic, accessed via a wooden staircase or a new lift adorned with a photograph from 1900. The standout addition is the inviting garden pool, set where a semicircle of palm trees once stood. If you wish, breakfast can be served there – or, for that matter, anywhere else in the house.

It’s a magnificent sight you wouldn’t expect to stumble upon in Malveira da Serra: a cluster of tall, dark Nordic-style wooden houses concealing one vast, striking building with soaring ceilings and eight themed bedrooms inspired by great literary classics. Is it a literary hotel? Not officially – but there are books everywhere, even lining the stairs that lead up to the rooms. The ground floor unfolds as a huge open-plan space with different living areas, from a games table to reading nooks, sofas and a TV corner. It flows into a dining room with kitchen, where breakfast – and dinner, by prior booking – is served beneath a canopy of lamps made from open books doubling as shades. It’s impossible not to pick one up and start reading.

With sweeping sea views, Evolution Cascais-Estoril has taken up residence in the former home of the classic Hotel Paris, in Estoril, just steps from Poça Beach. The lively bar at the entrance, with live music and DJs every weekend; The Kitchen restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner; and The Patio, a space to unwind, work or watch sport, welcome both guests and non-guests. There are 133 functional, minimalist and comfortable rooms filled with natural light, spread across five floors. Five are 70-square-metre suites and 24 are connecting family rooms, perfect for those travelling with children. But the real highlights are the top two floors. On the sixth, you’ll find the Wellness by Sayanna spa, complete with four treatment rooms and a heated indoor pool overlooking the ocean. On the seventh and final floor, with a 180-degree panorama stretching from Cascais Bay to Carcavelos Beach, there’s the infinity pool and The Upper Deck restaurant.

The 19th-century mansion that once belonged to the Count of Cabral is now a luxury hotel within the international Design Hotels portfolio. Perched above the Atlantic, the Farol Hotel boasts one of the most beautiful pools along the Cascais coastline, as well as a lovely terrace for sunset drinks or sampling the Portuguese and Japanese specialities at its restaurant, The Mix – excellent excuses to visit without necessarily staying the night.

But if you do decide to check in, step into the classic building, now complemented by a sleek modern wing, and choose from the impressive sea-view suites, or opt for a superior sea-view room or a garden-view room instead.

The entire setting channels the grandeur of an old fort, with dark terracotta floors, patterned carpets and heavy drapes framing the windows – all in striking contrast to the glorious Atlantic outside. The real stronghold of this fortress, though, lies in the kitchen that shares its name. Fortaleza do Guincho was awarded a Michelin star in 2001 and has held onto it ever since – once shaped by a strong French-school influence, now deeply inspired by the sea.

Ever slept in a king’s former home? Here’s your chance. The Cascais residence of Italy’s last king, Umberto II of Italy, has been transformed into a luxury hotel where the sea views are so spectacular they almost outshine the refined interiors by Graça Viterbo. Of the little over 100 rooms, the least exciting are those overlooking the garden. If you’re going to play monarch, opt for a Seaview Retreat standard room, a suite – or, why not, a penthouse. All come stocked with amenities by Portuguese brand Castelbel. The common areas are fit for royalty, too: highlights include the outdoor pool, the thalassotherapy spa (inspired by Roman baths, with over 1,000 square metres, ten treatment rooms, a pool, sauna, jacuzzi and gym) and the Italian restaurant Belvedere at the Grande Real Villa Itália.

If sprawling hotels with hundreds of rooms aren’t your thing, don’t be fooled by the size of the building that, until 2007, housed the iconic Hotel Atlântico. Today, only three floors of the InterContinental Cascais-Estoril are dedicated to guest rooms, with the remaining levels reserved for luxury apartments. Wherever you are – on your room’s balcony, stretched out on a sunbed by the pool or at the Bago du Vin restaurant for breakfast, a drink or dinner – there’s a view of the ocean, as well as the charming curve of Cascais Bay and the coastline stretching towards Lisbon. The promenade and beaches such as Praia das Moitas are just a few steps away, though it’s entirely understandable if you struggle to leave the hotel. Between the heated pool and Ocean Spot bar, the spa’s relaxing massages and Bago du Vin’s impressive list of wines, sparkling wines and champagnes – best paired with Portuguese cheeses and charcuterie or dishes by chef Pedro Lopes – staying put can be very tempting indeed.

Man cannot live by sea views alone – which is precisely why the Onyria Marinha Boutique Hotel more than earns its place among the best hotels along the Cascais coastline. Not that the views are lacking: here, it’s endless green as far as the eye can see, right in the heart of the Quinta da Marinha golf course. For those heading to Cascais with children in tow, it’s a family-friendly choice, with activities to keep younger guests entertained while parents unwind at the spa, soak up the sun by the pool or enjoy a little downtime in a super king-size bed.

More than a throwback to the glorious heyday of the Cascais coastline, this grand dame has carried its charm gracefully into the present. The gardens, romantic bedrooms and imposing common areas – decked out with framed photographs of royalty, chandeliers and even a grand piano – still dazzle, even those who’ve sworn allegiance to Nordic minimalism or the maximalist flair so fashionable in today’s luxury hotels. Breakfast more than holds its own against what’s served just a few steps away at the famed Pastelaria Garrett, and the pool – once graced by the cast of On Her Majesty's Secret Service during their stay – is a temptation in itself, even for anyone planning to spend their days stretched out on Estoril’s sandy beaches.

The former Forte de Nossa Senhora da Luz in Cascais – a national heritage site – is now home to the Pousada de Cascais – Cidadela Historic Hotel & Art District. With 108 rooms and 18 luxury suites, almost all overlooking the sea, the hotel features two open-air courtyards, the Taberna da Praça restaurant with its terrace, the curious Déjà Lu second-hand bookshop and several art galleries. Art, in fact, is everywhere – lining the corridors, filling the bedrooms and animating the common areas, with works by local creators woven throughout.