Newly opened Kadıköy eatery reinvents the humble dürüm with gourmet influences. One of the most memorable moments from renowned American chef Anthony Bourdain’s Istanbul visit in No Reservations was when he described his thoughts on döner kebap with the sentence, “A good sandwich should be like good sex… sloppy.” And while we generally agree with him, when it comes to the dürüm – a close cousin to the döner kebap – our recent encounter with two chefs has given us reason to believe that perhaps sloppy isn’t the way to go. Kaan Sakarya and Derin Arıbaş recently ditched the world of fine dining to open a small shop that takes a gastronomic approach to street food. This is the first culinary experience in Turkey for Arıbaş, who spent the last eight years working abroad: he believes the biggest change for him will be the increase in the number of dishes prepared each day. Meanwhile, Sakarya – who made a name for himself as the chef of Beyoğlu fine-dining eatery Nicole after working in France – is excited to share his talent with a larger crowd. “In Turkey, people generally go to gourmet restaurants for business dinners or on special days like birthdays,” he says, “so we weren’t able to share our efforts with the masses.” According to the chefs, what sets their dürüms (wraps) apart are their meat cooking technique as well as the spices and sauces they use. The ribs in their beef dürüm are slow-cooked for seven to eight hours, while the pickles and mustard sauce served alongside it are made using the chefs’ own recipes. Basta! also serves dürüms with homemade chorizo, smoked chicken and a daily-changing variety of vegetarian ingredients, all for around 16-17 TL. The prices are decidedly kept reasonable: “At the end of the day, we’re selling street food,” Sakarya says. “One shouldn’t have to come here and spend 50 TL on a meal.” The chefs’ talent really shines through in the desserts. There are gems here you wouldn’t be surprised to see on the menu of an elegant restaurant in France, like the vanilla sütlaç (rice pudding) and the Paris-Brest. Make no mistake: it’s a true privilege to taste them at a tiny restaurant in Kadıköy that only employs four people.
|Venue name:||Basta! Street Food Bar||Contact:|
Sakız Sokak 1, Moda