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Internationally acclaimed plant-based chef Sunni Speaks has officially landed in South Africa, bringing with her one of her most talked-about creations, vegan oxtail, and it’s already causing quite a stir.
The chef has taken over the kitchen at The Vegan Chef in Sandton, where she will be serving her signature dish to locals until Sunday, 18 January. Time Out Johannesburg was among the first on the scene when the restaurant opened its doors to experience what all the hype has been about.
From the moment we arrived, it was clear that this was no ordinary dining experience. We were warmly welcomed by Chef Sue Gajathar, founder of The Vegan Chef, whose passion for plant-based cuisine is evident throughout the restaurant. Moments later, Chef Sunni herself walked in, her radiant smile instantly lighting up the space and setting the tone for what was to come.
Soon after, the waitress arrived with the much-anticipated vegan oxtail. My very first thought was: “This really looks like oxtail.” As a loyal meat eater, I approached the dish with curiosity and an open mind, but nothing could have prepared me for the taste.
From the very first bite, I was completely sold. The vegan oxtail was tender, rich, and deeply flavourful, with a surprisingly meaty texture that made it easy to forget that no animal products were involved. It was one of those rare moments where food truly challenges your expectations. The question that immediately came to mind was: How did Chef Sunni pull this off?
If you follow Chef Sunni, you’ll know her proudly stated mission: “My goal is to make the food so damn good that you forget meat isn’t on your plate.” After tasting the oxtail, it’s safe to say she delivers!
The chef took the time out to chat with me about the inspiration and technique behind the dish, which she has served in various parts of the world.
“The oxtail that you have is a bit of a mix,” she explained. “American oxtail has carrots and celery in it. I know South African oxtail has tomato in it, so there’s some of that base. Caribbean oxtail, on the other hand, uses clove, fresh ginger, spring onion, fresh thyme - all inside.”
She went on to explain the use of green seasoning, a staple in Caribbean cooking.
“It’s basically onions, bell pepper, fresh herbs, oil, lemon, and bouillon blended. We start everything with that, rice, stew, everything.”
To achieve the rich colour typically associated with traditional oxtail, Chef Sunni uses a clever technique.
“To get the colour, we actually burn sugar. I make a caramel to start, the same way you would brown real oxtail meat. I brown the sugar, add the green seasoning, then onions, bell peppers, garlic, spring onion, fresh grated ginger - all those really rich, earthy flavours.”
She also revealed her secret ingredient - one that isn’t traditionally used in oxtail.
“I’ve added cumin,” she said. “Cumin has a very earthy flavour, and the combination gives it a beefy taste.”
Chef Sunni first discussed the idea of a kitchen takeover with Chef Sue during a 2022 visit to South Africa.
“Chef Sue was like, ‘Yeah, let’s do it,’ and I’ve been coming back ever since. This is my third year doing the takeover,” she shared.
When asked why she chose oxtail specifically, the answer was deeply intentional.
“Coming here to South Africa, I wanted to do something that felt native,” she explained.
Speaking about her journey into veganism six years ago, Chef Sunni revealed that the inspiration came from her father and a close friend.
“I’m Jamaican, I live in Miami, and my dad is actually known for having some of the best oxtail in Miami. When I went plant-based, I felt like what I was seeing wasn’t representative of my culture. Vegan food didn’t look like what I grew up eating.”
Determined to change that narrative, she began recreating familiar dishes using plants.
“One of my friends loves oxtail and said, ‘If I had oxtail, I would go vegan.’ He’s still not vegan, by the way,” she laughed. “So I started developing this recipe using different plants and textures, but keeping the same seasoning.”
She believes texture plays a bigger role than people realise.
“It’s not really the meat itself that people like, it’s the texture. If you can mimic the texture, all the flavouring stays the same.”
The vegan oxtail is served with rice and vegetables and costs R198.
As someone who loves meat, I never expected to leave the table genuinely considering going vegan, but that’s precisely what happened. That’s how good the meal was.
So, if you’re looking to explore bold, comforting, and culture-rich vegan cuisine, make your way to The Vegan Chef in Sandton while Chef Sunni Speaks is still in the country. You might leave questioning everything you thought you knew about plant-based food.
ALSO READ: The best vegan restaurants in Johannesburg
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