I Love Melville sign
I Love Melville sign
I Love Melville sign

Neighbourhood Diaries: Melville

Bookshops, dive bars, heritage houses and one of Joburg’s best bits of wild nature, all packed into a few walkable streets.

Garreth Van Niekerk
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What’s Melville known for?

Before we get ahead of ourselves, let’s deal with the elephant in the room. Melville gets a bad rap. There’s no shortage of think-pieces mourning the suburb’s “decline” as Joburg’s former nightlife, culinary and entertainment hub. Falling apart this, unsafe that, we miss the old days, blah blah blah. But here’s the thing: Melville has always been a shapeshifter. It reinvents itself, tests its edges, quietens down, then surprises you again. So enough of that.

Ask anyone from the ‘Ville today (insider’s tip: residents and business owners love it when you do), and you’ll hear a familiar line, delivered with a cheeky smile: “You know, Melville, it goes through its ups and downs…” And yet, spend an afternoon on the streets, and it’s hard not to notice its current glow-up. Sidewalks get swept. Local security is visible. The hanging lights have become their own little moment. New openings pop up where you swear nothing existed last month. The suburb feels awake again, not in a nostalgic way, but like a place that still has ideas and life to put forward.

What makes Melville special is the mix. It’s a neighbourhood where you can start with a proper lunch, drift into a gallery, buy a book you didn’t know you needed, and end the night in a bar you probably shouldn’t tell your mother about. You have some of the city’s most exciting new eateries (from seasoned restaurateurs, to names you’ll be hearing more of), a growing gallery circuit (if you haven’t done the Art Mile trail, add it to your diary), and a ridiculous range of bars for every mood: bougie, jazzy, grimy-and-divine dive, and everything in between. Then, just to keep you humble, there are the Melville Koppies, one of Joburg’s last pockets of real, breathing nature.

If it’s your first time, arrive with a local, or just be brave and start walking. Join the I Love Melville Facebook and Instagram communities for neighbourhood intel (and yes, gossip). Or follow Time Out Joburg. It’s literally the job.

How do I get to Melville?

Part of why Melville has stayed a perennial stop on Friday nights and on tourist maps is its central location. You can do dinner here, then be at the theatre in minutes, or slip into the inner city for a late-night mission without feeling like you are crossing provinces.

Melville sits just off the N1 corridor, with easy access from Empire Road and the surrounding arteries. Coming from Sandton, it’s a straightforward run through Rosebank and the Parks. From anywhere in the north, Beyers Naudé gets you close quickly. In Joburg terms, it’s almost suspiciously convenient.

What’s nearby?

From Melville’s centre, you’re close to Emmarentia and the Johannesburg Botanical Gardens, and to the north, you’ve got Greenside and Parkhurst for more bars, restaurants and browsing. Head south and you’re in striking distance of Braamfontein, the CBD and the inner city’s museums and theatres, plus Wits and UJ, both of which feed into Melville’s student-meets-creative energy. To the west, you’ve got Northcliff and Linden, which make for an excellent slow Sunday. To the east, older Joburg unfolds in Parktown, Houghton, and Orange Grove, where the city’s heritage begins to show.

If you only do one thing…

Walk it. Melville is best on foot. Come in the afternoon, let it build. Start at the Bamboo Centre, wander the side streets of heritage houses and big trees, then head towards 7th Street as the light changes. If you want a structured version, the Melville Art Mile has been turning First Thursday into a proper neighbourhood circuit, with galleries, studios and pop-ups along a walkable route.

If you’re looking to turn your visit into a staycation, you can find everything from luxury suites to cosy garden flats on Booking.com or Airbnb.

Map of Melville

The best things to do in Melville

Eat

Before COVID, Melville had no shortage of serious dining. The food scene took a knock in those years, as most places did, but it has found its feet again, and the current crop of openings and comebacks makes eating here feel fun, not dutiful.

If there were a patron saint of Melville’s lunch culture, it might be the Service Station buffet. Breakfast is great, sure, but lunch is the real flex: generous, satisfying, and exactly the kind of place where you start talking to the table next to you. It also sits in the Bamboo Centre, which is a perfect launchpad for first-timers.

From there, take the scenic route. A short walk up the hill lands you at the famous 7th Street strip. Arturo is one of the anchor stops, a tequila-and-tapas bar with tacos that make you wonder why you ever eat anywhere else. It’s also a real community hub, with Taco Tuesdays and regular Afro-Latin salsa nights that turn a casual dinner into a plan.

If you want outstanding dining with one of the best views in the city, Pablo House is the move. It’s the kind of place that makes Johannesburg look cinematic. If you do stay over, ask about their membership benefits. It’s one of those sneaky local hacks I probably shouldn’t be sharing.

Along 4th Avenue, you’ll find Café Picobella, where the Italian comfort food is reliable, and the people-watching is excellent.

De Baba is a favourite, especially if you have a weakness for pastry, and their new spot on 4th is a breath of fresh air. Their almond croissant is a menace, and the miso sourdough is the sort of loaf you plan your day around.

While you’re there, pop into the Joburg Artist Market development (what many locals still call 27 Boxes). Chopstix is a strong option for a quick hit, and the whole spot is full of little discoveries.

Drink

I wish I didn’t know this answer so fluently, but I also think you should be suspicious of any Joburger who cannot guide you through 7th Street at an unreasonable hour. There’s no fixed start or finish to a Melville bar crawl. It depends on the night, your mood, and the moment you arrive. Still, here’s a rough route.

Start at Six for the nachos, which have reached local-legend status. Stay for the live jazz and order the strawberry daiquiri, because sometimes you just need to lean in. Six tends to pull a more chilled crowd, and they are, without question, the best-behaved.

Across the road is Anti-Social Social Club, which, ironically, is one of the most social rooms in Melville. Expect Gqom nights, a scattering of live music, unconventional cocktails, and a level of rowdy that escalates sharply after midnight.

Ratz Bar, reimagined under new ownership, has become a haven for Joburg’s queer, cool and progressive crowd. Great music, excellent bartenders, and a pool table for when you need to recalibrate. If you’re feeling fluid, Liquid Blue is another stop, although the queue can sometimes test your commitment. If you make it inside, you’ll probably stay longer than planned.

Jo'Anna Melt Bar and Karaoke Kong can get wild, but the vibes are immaculate in the way only Melville can do. Good Omens is a newer arrival from founders with proper Joburg nightlife history, and it’s high on the list if you like nights that turn into stories.

And then there’s Smoking Kills. Any serious review of Melville’s drinking culture has to tip its hat to it. It’s one of those bars that feels like a rite of passage, and yes, it might change you slightly. Enter with an open mind, leave with at least one new opinion, and several new friends.

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Coffee

Melville understands recovery. If you need a morning reset, Tilt Café is a solid pavement perch, with a flat white that does the job and an endless parade of neighbourhood characters to watch.

If you are doing Melville with kids, Bambanani has turned family dining into an art form, with a multi-level jungle gym and an activity schedule that buys parents a rare, precious thing: a moment. Their child minders are a genuine gift.

The Sourcery is the calm centre of the storm. Part café, part sanctuary, filled to the brim with books, vintage objects, and vinyl on the decks that nod to the suburb’s truly bohemian heart. They’re a great place to start your adventure down 7th Street and will guide you as only a local could.

Shopping

Melville has always been good for browsing, the kind that starts as “just looking” and ends with an unexpected bag/ bag in hand. For fashion, start at Convoy in the Bamboo Centre, where a mix of local designers share space, keeping things interesting.

Across the road, you’ll find the Black Coffee fashion label in a space shared with designer Superella, who is an icon in her own right.

Upstairs at Bamboo is Tinsel Jewellery, championing contemporary jewellery since 2006, and still one of the best places in the city to see serious work up close. While you’re in the area, make time for Reminscene, a landmark for designer vintage long before vintage became a personality trait. The owner, Rosemary, is one of Melville’s true legends.

Joburg Artist Market is also packed with indie stores like Suhu Original and LeeBex, along with plenty of smaller surprises. It’s a bit of a maze, but that’s part of the charm. On the homeware and gifting front, keep an eye out for Trov, a newer addition that does a strong mix of African craft and local contemporary ceramics.

Book people, you’re in luck. Love Books is a proper institution, and their Thursday night launches are always full of interesting humans. Bookdealers of Melville is a treasure chest for niche and historical titles, plus staff who actually know what they’re talking about. Book Circle Capital is essential if you’re hunting rare African titles.

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Things To Do

Melville runs on community. People here organise. They show up. They patch potholes, repaint streetlines, and do the sort of DIY civic maintenance that is both slightly mad and completely understandable.

They are really the ones who keep the suburb’s events calendar buzzing. There are markets like the Melville Market, Melville Artisanal Market, and Joburg Artist Night Market.

There are live concerts from a wildly diverse range of musicians on weeknights at spots like Chiesa di Pazzo Lupi, Six, Good Omens, and Smoking Kills. For more dancing, there are the DJ nights that pull the city’s best dancers out of hiding at all the bars.

And then there’s the newer surge of First Thursday energy with the Melville Art Mile. It’s bringing a fresh crowd into the neighbourhood and reminding everyone what Melville does best: it makes Johannesburg feel walkable, social, and a little bit electric.

Melville isn’t a museum of “the good old days”. It’s a living neighbourhood that keeps rewriting itself, one opening, one late night, one book launch, one new regular at the bar at a time.

Come for the strip, stay for the side streets. And if you leave thinking you’ve “figured it out”, give it a month and go back. Melville will have changed again, just to keep you on your toes.

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