Time Out says
A menu of only six burgers means this restaurant can focus on getting the food just right. Food is imaginative and well-prepared, but takeaways can be sloppy.
Any new addition to the already saturated artery of takeaways in Hyde Park has to pull off something pretty special to stand out amid the dozens of burger, pizza and kebab shops. Boss Burgers on Queen’s Road manages to offer something new with its gourmet burger menu, its ethos of fresh foods and sustainable eating, and a funky eat-in area with a colourful cow mural.
There are just six burgers, plus fries, on the menu, meaning the bar can pull off a streamlined range of quality grills and homemade sauces with minimal waiting time. The crispy, salty and dangerously moreish fries are delicious on their own, but better when paired with one of the joint’s whimsically named burgers, such as Smokeback Mountain or Los Pollos Delicioso.
It’s hard to fault the thick-cut Yorkshire beef burgers, cooked to order and wedged into a glossy brioche bun, although the squeaky wodges of halloumi cheese on The Herbivore make an excellent substitute. Mayonnaise and barbecue sauce are made to a house recipe and are of vastly superior quality to the standard sugary takeaway big bottles.
Some burger bars might stretch as far as a gherkin or a bit of onion to spice up a plain patty, but Boss pushes the boat out with a tangy caramelised onion, a spicy-sweet chilli jam, smoky roasted red peppers and sprigs of peppery rocket.
At about £6 a burger, and £1.50 for chips, Boss isn’t extortionate, but it isn’t going to be competing on price with some of its dirt-cheap, round-the-clock neighbours, either. Instead, it seems to have found favour with a student community who are after something a bit more nutritious and flavoursome, and willing to sacrifice one drink in the pub for some great grub.
It’s advisable to sit in and enjoy the food instead of ordering a takeaway or delivery, as the burgers don’t seem to travel well, disintegrating quickly into their paper packaging and practically dissolving into a mound of bread, grease and meat when reheated at home. Hyde Park may be horrifying to outsiders, but quality eateries such as Boss are ensuring that it’s not all grotty in studentsville.