The group behind this excellent Leeds venue - D&D - don't usually get a lot wrong when it comes to quality dining, and so it proves here in a venue not forced to rely on its fifth floor views from Trinity Leeds.
One of the best things they've done is to get Lee Bennet heading up the kitchen. He's put together a seasonal menu showcasing some excellent local produce, with simple dishes such as pumpkin risotto (with 24-month aged parmesan, balsamic vinegar and toasted pine kernels) letting the quality of the ingredients shine. A sea bass fillet baked in paper and served with a red wine fish stock, caramelised onions and sauteed chestnuts is similarly good.
The Josper oven - capable of reaching 480 degrees - works the wonders for which it's well known on a range of superbly sourced meats. Go for the Denby Dale lamb chops (doused in rosemary and garlic and utterly delicious), or a cracking kilo of beef rib for two, should appetites allow.
A five course tasting menu at £65 is actually pretty good value for cooking this sound, but set lunches and early dinners (both £18.50 for two courses; £22.50 for three) still showcase the considerable competence of the kitchen. The Sunday lunches are really worth trying, too.
70 Boar Lane 5th floor Trinity Centre
|Price:||£26 to £40|