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A tiny, bright and friendly mother-and-son operation, Bodegas Ricla does a great line in garlicky 'boquerones' (whitebait) and an incongruous one in soft rock. Cheap but good wine and sherry are available by the litre, poured from tall clay urns, or there's vermouth on tap. Also worth trying are the 'cecina' (thin slices of cured venison) and cabrales cheese in cider.