La Torre del Oro

It's smack on the Plaza Mayor, so don't expect any bargains, especially if you sit out in the square, but this Andalusian bar is the real deal, with bullfighting memorabilia and incomprehensible waiters. If you can understand and make yourself understood, ask for prawns or whitebait ('pescaítos'), and accompany them with a cold, dry 'fino' (sherry).