Known affectionately as la filmo and featured in films by Almodóvar, this chic art nouveau national film theatre was founded more than 50 years ago. The neon-lit foyer/café is a lively meeting place and the tiny bookshop is always full of browsers. A free, expansive, fold-out monthly programme features details of its eclectic seasons of films from the Spanish National Archive and world cinema, auter, classical and experimental productions. Auditorium 1 (a reconstruction of the original auditorium of the Salón Doré) is an especially marvellous place to see silent movies, sometimes accompanied by live music. The outdoor rooftop cinema and bar are open - and unsurprisingly very popular - during the summer months. Be sure to get your tickets early; there are usually queues around showtime.