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A cosmopolitan crowd, buzzing to the sound of flamenco and rumba, throngs the Moorish arches, amid Andalucian tiles and a rogues' gallery of bullfighters. Upstairs the rumba rumbles but doesn't dominate. Head up here for a respite and a chat with the languid barman, but the frenzied guitar and pistol-shot hand-clapping will eventually lure you back. Don’t miss the bullfighting-themed photos and paintings that give the place the air of a miniature museum.