Pick your way down the side of the open kitchen to a deep dining room hung with pictures of visiting royals and grateful celebrities, along with rather grimmer photos of the 1906 bombing of Alfonso XIII's wedding procession – which happened right outside the door. Undamaged, and still going strong, Casa Ciriaco was a meeting place for the intelligentsia in pre–Civil War days, and although it no longer attracts too many thinkers, the Castilian fare is a taste of days gone by. 'Cochinillo' (suckling pig) is the speciality, along with partridge and butter beans, when in season. Waiters are as old-school as you'd expect, but very friendly.
|Venue name:||Casa Ciriaco|
|Opening hours:||Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-midnight; Wed closed|
|Transport:||Sol (M: L1, L2, L3), Ópera (M: L2, L5)|