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El Bierzo is one of the best of Madrid's long-established casas de comida - honest, dependable neighbourhood joints where you can get a good menú del día at a reasonable price. It buzzes, particularly during lunch, with a loyal crowd feasting on simple dishes: roast chicken, seven types of tortilla and excellent setas al ajillo (wild mushrooms fried in garlic). Just a chat with the friendly owner, Miguel, is worth coming here for.