La Gloria de Montera

The philosophy behind this wildly popular chain of restaurants involves swish, elegant surroundings, a sophisticated menu and dirt-cheap pricing. And yes, it's all that. What are less palatable are the dour, inexperienced waitresses and the production-line cooking. This doesn't matter so much with starters like rocket and feta salad, or puddings like fruit carpaccio with soured yoghurt, and strawberry tiramisu with cocoa ice-cream, but it does begin to grate when your steak (wine reduction, wild mushrooms) has been spot-cooked in a microwave.