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A cosy little corner of traditional France, with bare-bricked walls, yellow paintwork and a roll-call of dishes that verges on the parodic: deep-fried brie; garlicky snails, cod brandade, coquilles St Jacques, Châteaubriand and so on. The Gallic desserts do not disappoint either, and this may the only place to get decent tarte tatin or profiteroles in the city. On Sundays the vibe is a lazy one, for a protracted brunch involving Viennese pastries, eggs, hot chocolate and 'Le Monde'.