Our favorite places to eat and drink in Portales

A bread shaped like Totoro, a bear, or a panda could melt your heart. You can find these fluffy beauties at this tiny Japanese bakery, open since 2013 and curiously located on Tokio Street. Arrive early, as from 12 noon until the day's production runs out, the breads are laid out on the trays with sweet and savory fillings, including chocolate cream, pastry cream, apple, curry with pork, or sausage. And start booking your Christmas bread now, as they make one of the prettiest in the city.

Tokio 824, Portales. Eje Central Subway Station. Tue-Sat 12pm-8pm.

Whether you're grabbing a pastry at the café, enjoying the delicious daily menu at the restaurant, or stopping by for a glass of wine on a bohemian night, be sure to check out this place and its legendary jazz soul. In fact, important exponents of the genre perform here every Friday and Saturday. They've also produced material for various artists and organize the Jazzbook festival at various venues around the city. Among the food, with a very European vibe, their Spanish omelet and risotto are worthy of mention.

Ajusco 79, Portales. Eje Central Metro Station. Mon-Thurs 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-10:30pm.

The quiet and picturesque roundabout is home to a restaurant whose flavor will keep you coming back again and again. Chef Mane Rivera's passion for learning about traditional cuisines across the country is evident in every dish. In recent months, Tierra Adentro has expanded to accommodate a wider audience, allowing it to try its famous meatballs or cuachala with cheek quesadilla, also you'll find here one of the best Chile en nogada in town. Seasonal ingredients and direct contact with producers also make it a social project.

Nevado 12, Portales. Tue-Sat 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m., Sun 8:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.

The first time I had a curado was on this corner, back when it looked very different. La Paloma Azul has endured and transformed over more than 100 years of history, without losing its essence to anyone who needs to refresh themselves with a cool pulque, a fermented drink made from agave. Now its walls boast murals alluding to Mayahuel (the the Aztec goddess of maguey, pulque and fertility), and you can see in the decoration many shades of blue, fitting its name. Among the most popular curados are pine nut and pistachio, but you can also find oat, guava, or tangerine.

Popocatépetl 154, Portales. Eje Central Metro Station. Mon-Sun 11:30-9pm.

Thinking about plantain molotes makes our mouths water. If you want to feel like you're in Chiapas for a bit, this is the place to go, they even have marimba players. Here, they serve traditional Chiapas cuisine: cochito, bean soup, or enchiladas de mole, including a dozen typical tamales from the state's various regions that you absolutely must try. You can also buy Chiapas products to take home, such as melipona honey, handicrafts, coffee, pox, or tascalate.

Alhambra 214, Portales. Portales Metro Station. Tue-Sun 8am-6pm.

It may not look as Instagrammable as the rest of the new specialty coffee shops, but its simplicity is appreciated, and the quality of its beans is even more so. It's one of my must-stops after grocery shopping, as it's just steps away from the Portales market. Radiante Coffee Roasters is the roasting project behind its machines; they're so talented that you'll see the trophies they've won in national and international coffee competitions on display. They don't have a very extensive menu, as this is for those who love to faithfully taste the notes of each bean, especially when filtered.

Balboa 211, Portales, Portales Metro Station. Mon-Fri 8am-7pm, Sat-Sun 9am-7pm.