Brother’s Keeper on Alton Road could be a replica of what existed in the same spot four decades ago, with its neon tube lighting, a fish tank set into the back wall and a puffy cushion running along the bar’s edge. In the back, there’s a basic-looking pool table under the only bright light in the place.
I’d love it even if they only served Hot Pockets and four-buck Buds. But Brother’s Keeper is a collab between two teams that know how to sling proper drinks and food: Chris Hudnall and Randy Alonso of Lost Boy & Co. and chef Josh Elliott and Ellie Groden of QP Tapas. This means pretty much everything coming from the kitchen and bar is a dead-cold killer.
Like, for instance, the martini service: I tried a spicy dirty number that comes with an umami-kicked croissant and a Manhattan with a bacon-wrapped date sidecar. If you’re unsure of what to get, ask the bar’s Magic Eight Ball—apparently, my third round was destined to be a beer and a shot.
For the food, Elliott does gussied up (but not too much) bar classics, like a Frito pie with Whiz and vegan meat chili, a simple burger with crinkle fries, crispy A.F. wings, stuffed oysters, just about the best coconut shrimp I’ve had and—I forget what else. (Damn you, Magic Eight Ball!)
This bar, Brother’s Keeper, might feel like a familiar, well-loved dive, but it’s clean and not shabby. Still, this isn’t a “nice” place. Like, your mom probably won’t be impressed. But you should do happy hour here. Then go late-night. And pretend, while wielding a goblet-sized martini under the purplish neon glow, that you just snuck a Cessna right under the Coast Guard’s radar.