You never have to go far to find a bit of Cuba in Miami, but when it comes to surrounding yourself with guayaberas, cafecitos and fritas, two areas lead the pack: Little Havana and Hialeah. But who does it better? We revisit these two Cuban cornerstones to see what’s old and what’s new.
Little Havana, once the landing point for Cuban refugees in the ’60s, morphed into a home for Central American immigrants in the aughts and into a popular destination for out-of-towners today. “It’s evolved into a tourist mecca now,” says Frank Rodriguez Melo, a Cedano Realty Advisors principal who has owned and managed residential property in Little Havana for nearly 20 years. “The young people come almost out of nostalgia, and a lot of businesses have come in playing off that nostalgia. Azucar Ice Cream Company and Velvet Creme Doughnuts are the kinds of places your grandpa took you to, and now they’re back.” Little Havana, once the landing point for Cuban refugees in the ’60s, morphed into a home for Central American immigrants in the aughts and is now a haven for young professionals escaping Brickell’s high rents as well as a destination for out-of-towners.
So where do Cubans, immigrants, first generations and second generations live these days? It’s Hialeah, which boasts the most Cubans outside Cuba. While filled with residents who’ve been there since the 1950s as well as new-to-the-U.S. arrivals, the suburb increasingly attracts younger people.
“The problema Hialeah’s had for a long time is that, once anyone here was of age to produce anything innovative or interesting, they’d leave for other cities,” says 28-year-old Paul Hernandez, a Hialeah councilman. “But it’s shifting. People like me and my fiancée are choosing to raise families here, and we see it more as a thriving creative city with untapped potential.”
Hernandez is trying to tap some of that potential with the opening of the Leah Arts District, a stretch of warehouses that have been turned into art spaces—a sort of grittier, Cuban Wynwood. Matt Kuscher of Kush and Lokal renown recently purchased the venerable Stephen’s Restaurant (1000 E 16th St, Hialeah), a 63-year-old deli he plans to resurrect in the coming year. Add it to Pincho Factory on West 49th Street and the forthcoming Unbranded Brewing Co. (1395 E 11th Ave, Hialeah; unbrandedbrewing.com)—the city’s first craft brewery—and Hialeah is quietly turning into something few thought it ever would be: hip.
Yet even as Little Havana turns into a slice of Cuban nostalgia and Hialeah becomes a Cuban enclave for the 21st century, there’s still plenty of places in both to find the classics. Let’s go toe-to-toe and see once and for all.
LITTLE HAVANA: El Exquisito
This tiny ventanita by the Tower Theatre is everything you look for in a Cuban coffee window: cheap, strong cafecito, which is easy to grab and served quickly so you can keep cruising Calle Ocho. (1510 SW 8th St; 305-643-0227)
HIALEAH: Chico’s Restaurant
Only hurricanes have kept this Hialeah stalwart from serving its loyal patrons—the restaurant has only closed twice since opening in 1980s. It’s a 24-hour spot where the coffee is fresh and sweet, whether you’re trying to wake up in the early morning or power through a long night. (4070 W 12th Ave; 305-556-8907)
Winner: Little Havana
LITTLE HAVANA: Versailles
Yes, it’s one T-shirt shop away from being a bona fide tourist trap, but the lines aren’t full of just out-of-towners. One of the originals, the sandwich is still made the exact same way it was in 1971. Available around the clock, it’s an excellent hangover cure. (3555 SW 8th St; 305-444-0240)
HIALEAH: Caribe Restaurant
The toasted version of the Cubano served at this local chain’s Hialeah outpost is one of the most consistently great sandwiches in all of Miami, partly because they’re more generous with the meat, mustard and fresh pickles. (1750 W 68th St; 305-556-4914)
Winner: Hialeah
LITTLE HAVANA: Azucar Ice Cream Company
The Cuban-inspired artisanal ice cream shop might be the best in all of Miami, not just this neighborhood. Try the themed flavors, such as the Abuela María with guava and cream cheese and the Willy Cherrino double cherry—a delicious nod Cuban musician Willy Chirino.
HIALEAH: Tio Colo
Bocaditos de helado is Spanish for “ice cream sandwiches.” Back in 2008, Tio Colo (“Uncle Colo”) was the first in Miami to make the Cuban version artisanally. They’ve got other stuff, but the go-to here is the homemade ice cream stacked between two pieces of sugar-dusted yellow cake. (8051 W 24 Ave; 786-515-3562)
Winner: Little Havana
LITTLE HAVANA: La Camaronera
This former seafood stand has been featured on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins, Dives and PBS’s Check, Please! and now boasts more tables to enjoy the same ocean-fresh fare. The pan con minuta (fried snapper sandwich) is made to order and a must. Skip the table and eats yours standing at the counter like the regulars. 1952 W Flagler St; 305-642-3322)
HIALEAH: Molina’s Ranch Restaurant
Come here for all the classic Cuban food you want—mariquitas con mojo, vaca frita and moros are standouts here—without the tourists you might find in other neighborhoods. It also has all the Celia Cruz photos you could ask for (she was friends with the owner). (4090 E Eighth Ave; 305-693-4440)
Winner: Hialeah
LITTLE HAVANA: El Rey de las Fritas
This no-frills diner was one of the original places to bring the Cuban take on the hamburger to South Florida (a seasoned blend of beef and chorizo between Cuban bread buns). It’s spread outside of Little Havana now, but this location is the original. (1821 SW 8th St; 305-644-6054)
HIALEAH: Morro Castle
Since 1966, this family-owned restaurant has been making its fritas from scratch, plus the heap of shoestring fries it’s stuffed with are fried to order. (1201 W 44th Pl; 305-556-4252)
Winner: Little Havana
LITTLE HAVANA: Hoy Como Ayer
This lounge brings in top-notch musicians from Cuba and beyond nearly every night. The venue is casual, loud and undeniably authentic, with strong mojitos that will help you show your stuff on the dance floor. (2212 SW 8th St; 305-541-2631)
HIALEAH: The Bend Liquor Lounge
The hidden hipster bar still boasts the same wood paneling from when it opened in the ’70s under a different name. Numerous iterations later, it’s the only place in these parts that serves craft cocktails and locally brewed beer. Also, they play every kind of music but salsa. (6844 NW 169 St; 786-542-1948)
Winner: A tie.
And the overall winner is...
Little Havana! We see the potential in scrappy Hialeah but Little Havana has the nostalgia, culture and nightlife locked down.
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