These days, it’s practically a given that chefs wear multiple hats—they’re also authors, TV personalities and culinary judges. In the case of James Beard Award winner Kwame Onwuachi, you can add soon-to-be Miami restaurateur to the list. The former Top Chef contestant and toque behind some of the country’s most celebrated restaurants (including Tatiana, named the No. 1 restaurant in NYC by Time Out New York and ranked No. 10 in the city by The New York Times) is teaming up with the crew behind NYC’s Las' Lap (partners Vincent Bryant, Bryce Sheldon, Nick Semkiw, Scott Williams and attorney L. Ryan Shaffer) to bring the West Indian concept to The Daydrift hotel in South Beach.
Chef Kwame will lead the menu, paying homage to his Trinidadian roots and Miami’s diverse Caribbean community with a tightly curated lineup of small plates and shareable dishes—each designed to pair effortlessly with Las' Lap’s tropical cocktails, ideally enjoyed canal-side on the patio or nestled into one of the cozy velvet banquettes.
We caught up with chef Kwame during a whirlwind visit to Miami, where he gave us a sneak peek at the nearly finished dining room and shared what we can expect from his first Magic City venture. Never one to slow down, he also dished on a few upcoming projects and the one hobby he’s finally making time for.
Do you enjoy the construction process of a new restaurant?
This is the best part. Putting it all together. It starts on paper and then it gets to where it is now.
Your portfolio is incredibly diverse, spanning books, TV and everything else you're currently working on. Do you take a different approach to each project?
I try to do everything with intention, even like this space here. I was talking to somebody and they were like, 'Oh, we expect you to be at a large hotel or a big restaurant.' This feels just intentional. Partnering with the Las’ Lap team, the brands definitely aligned in the type of offerings. And being in a small niche place, I think, adds some texture to the culinary landscape here.
How do you begin a new project—do you have any rituals or routines you follow?
I normally start with a story, and that story helps me craft the menu, and that crafts the design, and it crafts the plateware and every aspect. So, it normally just starts with a story. This one is a little bit more unique because it's already something that's established and we're just partnering together. Each time it starts with a story.
I think it says a lot that your first foray into Miami hospitality is Las' Lap. Were there other opportunities before this one, and why was this the one?
Yes, but I didn't really explore them, honestly. [This] just felt a little more wholesome and felt like it would be impactful in a way. A place where people can come late at night that's off the beaten path, but it's still on South Beach. A place that there is some sort of exclusivity because of the sheer size of it—and there can be some true attention to detail because of that. I think it's a beautiful combination of so many different things that made this really, really attractive. And then I know the partners from New York from frequenting Las' Lap. I think it all just made sense.
What elements of your personality will we see at Las' Lap?
I would say my attention to detail, both on the service side and in the kitchen. And then, really consulting on everything that has to do with food and service.
What aspects of your upbringing and culture are you hoping to honor through this menu?
Definitely my Caribbean side. Las' Lap means the golden hour of the last hour before Carnival in Trinidad and Tobago. My grandfather is from Trinidad, so some of that culture will be represented here through the food, like escovitch crab claws. I didn't have it with crab claws, but I had it on fish. It’s like a pickled situation with carrots, onions and scotch bonnet that I'm doing with crab claws. I'm also making bucatini and clams, similar to Rasta Pasta, but more in the style of linguine with clams from Italy. I’m injecting those Caribbean flavors in a really nice, refined way.
Are you drawing from Miami’s local culture for the menu?
There’s an oxtail Cuban on the menu, with jerk beef, bacon, and Swiss on brioche. I’m definitely playing into the Cuban aspects that are prevalent here. There’s also a Wagyu griot, similar to the Haitian fried pork dish, that I'm doing with Wagyu short rib, some rice and peas, some pikliz and tamarind sauce. I’m really using the landscape of Miami to tell the story of the menu.
I’ve watched several videos of you where you talk about wings… a lot. Will there be wings on the Las' Lap menu?
I talk about wings a lot? Yeah, I'll have some sticky wings on the menu. They'll be smoked, double-cooked—battered and fried and then glazed in a jerk barbecue and chili honey.
How does your approach to cooking differ when you're on television compared to when you're in one of your restaurants or at home?
It's always a different version. There's always a different story to tell, and a different medium to tell it. My restaurant, Tatiana, is different from my patty shop, Patty Palace, different from Dōgon [in D.C.] or down to here, [Las' Lap]. I think there's definitely a through line with flavors that really showcase my culture, which is Creole, Nigerian, Jamaican and Trinidadian. But it's always telling a different story.
I’m really using the landscape of Miami to tell the story of the menu.
Do you feel like you give every project the same attention? I’m sure it’s a bit like having kids—people say they don’t have a favorite, but they usually do.
Oh, yeah. I love all my children equally. Everyone gets the attention that they need. Some projects were able to fly on their own a little earlier and some need some more love. It's all about that balance, giving whatever project the time that it needs for it to be the best version of itself. That doesn't even mean walking through the dining room and shaking your head and kissing a baby. It's spending time with the staff. A lot of them come on these projects with my name attached to it. I don't want them to feel like I never see them.
You have another opening on the horizon: Patty Palace at Time Out Market Union Square. Can you tell us about that?
Oh man, it's going to be great. I mean, it's a truly exciting concept of Jamaican patties on cocoa bread. We have a jerk barbecue, green seasoning aioli and ginger cabbage slaw. That's really, really delicious. I am just excited to bring it there with different flavors of patties. We'll have the existing curry chicken, and we’ll have the classic beef and jerk mushroom and potato [for the market.] I'm looking forward to it.
What’s exciting you about this opportunity?
I mean, I think this one's unique. I don't think I like all [food halls], but this is Time Out—they do a good job. It's also a smaller one with only four or five spots, and it's right in the middle of Union Square. It'll add to the options that people have for quick things to eat. I think this one makes sense.
Do you have plans to write another book?
Yeah, I am. I actually have to hand in the manuscript [for my cookbook] in two days, so yeah, I have to do that on the plane. Finish it on the plane. It's already almost done. I just have to do a couple of final edits.
You’re non-stop. How do you decompress?
For the past year and a half, I have been playing golf. My friend took me out to the driving range and I just fell in love with it. I bought a set of clubs the next day, joined a country club three months later, and I've been golfing ever since. I go at 6 or 7am, tee off super early, and then I have my full day. And then I'm in the restaurant business, so my service doesn't start until 5pm normally. When I travel, I play, and I travel a lot around the world, so it's pretty cool.