Even way back when we met a young Kwame Onwuachi on Top Chef, his narrative was clear from the get-go: translate his Bronx upbringing and Afro-Caribbean heritage on the plate. And while his first chapters were laid in Washington, D.C., his New York homecoming is certainly one of the best reads. Since opening in 2022, Tatiana has been propelled into the conversation of New York's best restaurant, period. And as much as reviews and influencers can inflate such a thing, Onwuachi's effortless flow between modernizing time-honored Nigerian and Caribbean dishes and playful riffs on bodega bites give backing to all of the hype.
The vibe: With a Lincoln Center address, Tatiana takes a page from its theatrical neighbors with a curtain of its own, as the dining room is shrouded in golden chains that cascade from the ceiling. Perfectly placed hooks on the metal give visual interest, appearing as if it is raining diamonds inside. But there are little else dramatics here, as the delicate, minimal even, interior features a few of plumes of flowers in places, handsome marble tables and leather-backed dining chairs that are actually comfortable. The most eye-catching goes to the cloud-like structures that hang up above that glow blue-ish purple or purplish-blue, depending on your gauge of color.
In contrast to such simplicity, it is the music that truly sets the vibe. The playlist here sounds like what came out of the speakers of my older sister's Toyota Corolla in the '90s and early 2000s. And I mean that in the best way, as throwbacks of Tupac and Big Pun induce nostalgia while Kendrick Lamar brings us to the modern era. And let's just say that the playing of Tevin Campbell's "Can We Talk" served as the crescendo, as tables took pause on patties and egusi dumplings to shimmy to the groove.
The food: The story of Onwuachi can be found on the plate. The hard-fried dumplings speak to his Nigerian side, as the insides spill with egusi, a deep red, crab-based stew that almost eats like a paste. Boomerang-shaped Caribbean patties reveal shreddy goat gloriously cooked down with fiery chilies, the flames easily quelled with a lightly picked mango chutney. Eschewing the bad rap of oozy okra, burnished and charred strips arrive at the table, made almost poppable thanks to a sticky-sweet glaze that hums with heat. Even the dishes of the evening hold court, as the uniform block of Cornbread comes with a swipe of a tomatoey-tart curry butter that you wish you could bottle and bag. The oxtails here release from the bone with ease, as they should, glistening in a glossy sauce that reflects the light of the clouds above, and, likely, your gleeful expression. But Onwuachi's New York side is alive and well, especially the Cosmic Brownie served with tight rings of ice cream, fashioned to look like powdered doughnuts. The only critique is that a lot of the food reads heavy—dumplings and rangoons come fried, while the take-out mushrooms dish comes with scallion pancakes that leave traces of oil behind on the hands. So it may prove difficult to stay present during a three-hour rendition of Don Giovanni with oxtails dancing in your head and belly.
The drinks: Caribbean flavors also find their way to the cocktail menu as the pisco-based Panchito features the tartness of sorrel, softened with an acid-reduced pineapple juice. But Onwuachi's love of New York shines through, particularly with the POG Nutcracker. An updated take on NYC's favorite summertime beachside cocktail, Tatiana's version is just as boozy but much better balanced with rum and a blend of passionfruit, orange and guava juices. Speaking of boozy, you can also get gourmet Jello shots flavored like strawberry daiquiris and tequila punches.
Time Out tip: Even though we are three years past the opening date, getting a table is still one of the most difficult things to be had in New York. However, Tatiana reserves its bar seats and small outdoor patio for walk-ins. Just arrive about an hour before opening to line up and take your chances.