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Miami Spice of the week: Three

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Miami Spice has officially arrived. Each week we’ll be zeroing in on a specific restaurant we think deserves to be on your Spice hit list. This week: Three.

It has taken Three no time at all to establish itself as the big dog in the Miami food scene. And while thrilling to watch (and eat), Three’s success is hardly a surprise considering it’s led by the esteemed Miami chef Norman Van Aken. What he’s done with his beautiful new Wynwood restaurant deserves your attention. And—as luck would have it—Miami Spice is a perfect time to introduce yourself to Three. It was one of the first Spice’s we crossed off on our list. On a recent visit, the service, food and ambiance were all magnificent. Van Aken himself circled the dining room, chatting amiably with diners and checking in with his team in the open kitchen to ensure things were running smoothly. They were running oh-so-smoothly indeed. And the result is our Miami Spice of the week.

When to go: The Miami Spice menu is offered Tuesday through Saturday. Service runs Tuesday and Wednesday from 5:30pm to 10:30pm and Thursday through Saturday from 5:30pm to 11:30pm.

What to order: This is the perfect Miami Spice for a party of two since the appetizer, entree and dessert all have two choices. Unless you have any dietary restrictions, go half-and-half with a partner on everything. If we had to pick favorites, we’ll go with the Sichuan cucumber with smoked fish dip, grilled quail and Three’s new dessert, the corn nicuatole with sweet corn ice cream.

Why we love it: Three walks the tightrope of high-concept and unapologetic deliciousness so perfectly. Nothing is too over-the-top (as so often happens with Miami fine dining) but everything has just the right pinch of showmanship.

You’ll save: About $26. The normal three-course tasting menu is $65. The impressive five-course menu us $90 per person.

 

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