Hereford Grill

Hereford Grill is in an area of Miami I fondly refer to as “airport”—a sort of corporate-commercial no-man’s-land that rubs shoulders with MIA, Magic City Casino and the forthcoming Miami Freedom Park. Nonetheless, this longstanding and newly reimagined steakhouse with an Argentine flair fits the bill when the occasion calls for a semi-swanky night out west of I-95.

The vibe: I booked Hereford for a group of four ahead of a comedy show at the Miami Improv, about 15 minutes northwest in Doral. I was hoping for an upscale, unstuffy vibe with a touch of early-2000s nostalgia, and that’s just what we got. With its curved glass facade, 360-degree bar, festive feel and friendly, refined service, it’s easy to imagine this spot dominating with the area’s power lunch and corporate dinner crowds, just like it did back in the day.

The food: Beyond its updated looks, the new Hereford Grill takes inspiration from the parrillas of Argentina, partnering with Buenos Aires’ esteemed Corte Comedor to hone its steak program and preparations. Each cut of sustainably sourced, hormone-free beef is wet-aged for 30 days before it’s cooked over a combination of charcoal and wood fire.

The organic Angus rib cap from Argentina was the highlight of our meal, with a tender earthiness enhanced by bearnaise sauce and mixed herb butter. Aside from the steaks, our table enjoyed the short rib croquettes with romesco sauce and the Caesar salad with baby gem lettuce prepared tableside.

The drink: A steakhouse is really only as good as its martinis, and Hereford succeeded insofar as each of our table’s four variations was executed to satisfaction, down to the "dirty" ratios and blue cheese-stuffed olives. Hereford Grill's wine program was also recognized by Wine Spectator in its first two months of opening, so do ask for recommendations with your meal.

Time Out tip: If you’re going on a Saturday, order the Butcher’s Menu for two ($205). The specially priced menu includes the tableside Caesar; a 50-ounce certified Black Angus Tomahawk steak served with a selection of potato puree, lobster mac or organic roasted carrots; and an excellent house-made tres leches cake for dessert.