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Review
Karyu, the U.S. outpost of Tokyo’s Michelin one-star Oniku Karyu, is a 10-seat counter in the Miami Design District hidden behind a nondescript entrance across the street from the ICA Museum.
The vibe: Sophisticated but relaxed, especially for an omakase. The chef and staff interact with guests throughout dinner, and there’s a steady soundtrack of indiscernible music to set the mood and keep your conversations private, if you keep them just above a whisper. It is omakase, after all.
The food: Karyu serves a 10-course menu featuring eight wagyu-centric preparations, a vegetarian course (puréed corn soup on my visit) and a kakigori shaved ice with seasonal fruit. All of the wagyu is sourced from Ueda Chikusan, a family-run ranch dedicated to raising prized Tajimaguro cattle. The menu changes often to reflect Japan’s seasonality.
The drink: The curated beverage program of sake and wine is meant to help the wagyu shine—it’s also as exclusive as the marbled beef. The 2023 Bandol rouge I tried was among the rare and limited producers available, and Karyu is the only restaurant in Florida to carry it by the bottle and by the glass.
Time Out tip: Pace yourself, and don’t be afraid to request an extra-small portion of beef curry, the last savory dish, which is portioned according to each order—a simple way to give guests some agency over a rich omakase experience.
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