The food at No Name Chinese is for people who don’t like Chinese food, at least the way most would understand it to be: heavy, greasy, salty, batched and doused in sauce. If you can appreciate fresh ingredients, complex flavor profiles and dishes that are made to order, you might leave the restaurant a convert. Ease into the experience with a smattering of small plates, like the bite-size angry dumplings filled with spicy chicken. The kick depends on the starter’s mood, so to speak: the more irate the dumpling, the hotter your mouth will be. Give your taste buds a rest with the roasted mushrooms—a beautifully plated, mixed-temperature salad with strawberries and frisée—and kung pao chicken. No Name nails the classic takeout dish with crunchy cashews and a handful of Tianjin chilies, which burst with heat and spice. You’ll want to save your soy sauce and flavoring packets for your neighborhood join; No Name’s fare tastes just fine on its own.
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