Papi is Spanish for daddy, it’s also David “Papi” Einhorn’s nickname and now the cheeky moniker is the name of Einhorn’s and David Grutman’s restaurant in the South of Fifth neighborhood. The modern steakhouse is not unlike other Grutman properties with celebrities and VIPs floating about its cozy, velvet-accented dining room. But make no mistake, the star of this show is the food—namely the Jewish deli classics Papi elevates to supper-club worthy bites.
The caesar salad and hamachi crudo are delicious and would make for suitable starters elsewhere, but here they’re distractions from the main event: the crispy latkes served with crème fraîche and house-made apple sauce, and the wagyu pastrami—four buttery strips of perfectly seasoned meat with a dollop of house-made mustards and cornichon. At $60 an order, it’s not the best value on the menu, but it’s the only one you’ll want to splurge on. If four pieces of steak aren’t enough, the namesake cut with Papi’s signature secret sauce is large enough to share with at least two hungry carnivores, while the vegetarians will find the side of roasted mushrooms equally meaty and satisfying. While you're at it, order the jalapeño cornbread and the mac and cheese with gruyere for the table as well.
Papi features an exhaustive wine list, but servers are happy to help you navigate the wide selection. It’s loud and quite the scene inside but the staff doesn’t skip a bit, even if it means shouting over the music to ensure your meal is cooked just right.
