As someone who’s never felt at ease dining at a hushed omakase (the case for most), I’m pretty fond of the recent spate of laid-back handroll bars. Wynwood’s Pari Pari is one such place where you’ll never have to whisper, and sitting still is virtually impossible with the lo-fi soundtrack on loop. Created in partnership with three Parisian pals and acclaimed Japanese chef Yasu Tanaka, the restaurant blends Japanese elegance and French flair for a vibe and menu that feel fresh and decidedly cool. Its pop art–lined walls and sleek shelving stocked with records skew listening bar, but instead of a DJ booth, your entertainment is a 24-seat counter overlooking speedy chefs intrepidly assembling handrolls on demand.
Once seated, you’ll be handed a paper and tiny pencil to mark your selections from the menu of sashimi appetizers (well-portioned for one) and a variety of handrolls—classic (straightforward fish combos like salmon and avocado or spicy scallop with cucumber), veggie and signature (ranging from toro and caviar to wagyu and uni). Priced between $6 and $22 each, the handheld creations can add up quickly if you’re hungry and/or adventurous, though I found four to be the sweet spot if you’re starting with an appetizer and saving room for dessert. Another perk handroll bars have over omakase counters? Efficiency. We were in and out and on our way to a concert in under an hour, and never once felt rushed. In a dining scene obsessed with ceremony, Pari Pari proves that sushi can still be fun, fast and unfussy.