Pauline

Like the gorgeously renovated hotel in which it resides, Pauline serves immaculately composed plates that are no less flavorful or heartfelt. From the mind of chef Abram Bissell, a Florida Keys native with more than two decades of culinary expertise at the likes of Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad, Pauline’s coastal-inspired menu celebrates Miami’s rich Latin, Caribbean and Mediterranean influences in a sexy, midcentury-tinged space.

The vibe: The Shelborne By Proper is among the latest boutique luxury hotel propositions on South Beach, an Art Deco icon that’s been artfully updated and restored with no detail left undone. As the property’s flagship restaurant, Pauline rises to the occasion, tucked past the soaring lobby in a sultry dining room where couples, creatives and jetsetters converge in a mix of tailored linens and laidback resort looks.

The food: It’s no coincidence that raw bar selections make up the largest portion of the menu here. The Cinco Conchas (“five shells”) is a great way to sample most of them—but for us, the star was the conch ceviche in a tangy and herbaceous coconut leche with habanero ferment. A single order comes with four pieces served on a very pretty pearlescent half-shell.

Other highlights include the delicate Fluke Crudo flecked with lemon agrumato and horseradish; and the Chilled Lobster Salad, bright, textural and savory with ribbons of jicama, coconut and mint. 

We took a break from seafood for our main and ordered the Beef Loin “Con Pan,” a deconstructed take on the ubiquitous Cuban steak sandwich made with oyster mushrooms in a savory, smoky pimentón sauce. We did not regret this choice one bit. 

The drink: Pauline is named after legendary journalist and author Charles H. Baker Jr.’s wife, his longtime muse and a socialite in her own right. While the food pays homage to the couple’s intrepid culinary explorations, Pauline’s beverage program draws entirely from Baker Jr.’s own recipes and travel journals. Rare wines, sherry, aperitivo and Latin American spirits feature, along with a lineup of balanced and refreshing signature cocktails, like the Mango Heat made with blanco tequila, fino sherry, chili, mango, lime and club soda.

Time Out tip: Familiar ingredients belie some surprising preparations and serious culinary technique in Pauline’s tightly curated menu. When in doubt, ask your server for a bit of guidance. After all, each dish here comes with a story, and that’s definitely part of the fun. After dinner, stop in for a nightcap and chilled vinyl sounds at Little Torch, the Shelborne’s cozy cocktail lounge where drinks are mixed up tableside from a roving bar cart.