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Weekend plans, sorted: one of Osaka’s most picturesque flower-viewing spots has reached peak hydrangea

One of the best places to see hydrangeas in Osaka is now in full bloom. Nukata Park on the slopes of Mt Ikoma is home to around 25,000 plants across 30 varieties – enough to make a reasonable case for it being one of the finest hydrangea spots in Kansai.
Set within Osaka Prefectural Forest on the border between Higashi-Osaka and Nara, the park sits high enough on the mountainside to stay noticeably cooler than the city below. A well-maintained trail winds through 1.5km of carefully arranged plantings, opening at intervals to offer sweeping views across the Osaka plain.
The annual Mt Ikoma Hydrangea Festival runs daily 9am–5pm from June 20 to July 12 and there’s a rest area with toilets on site.
There are a couple of ways to get to the park, but the best by some margin is to take the charmingly retro Kintetsu Ikoma Cable Car – one of Japan’s oldest, running since 1918 – from Nara’s Ikoma Station up to Ikomasanjo Station, walk through the hydrangea trail, and then pick up the Ikoma Nature Trail and Zushidani hiking course back into Osaka.
By descending through mountain shade the whole way, you make the most of the breezes that the city flatly refuses to provide in summer while avoiding the strain of hiking up in the heat.
The Zushidani course is also a refreshing treat if you’re looking for a break from the city. The peaceful 80-minute hike down passes wayside shrines half-consumed by the hillside before delivering you to Ishikiri Tsurugiya Shrine – one of Osaka’s genuine hidden gems.
This sprawling temple complex, founded some 2,700 years ago, is half built into the local area surrounding arcades of shops, and is as lively as it unspoilt. It has also earned a reputation as something of a fortune-telling destination, with what must be one of the highest concentrations of soothsayers anywhere in western Japan.
From Ishikiri, it’s a short walk to Shin-Ishikiri Station on the Chuo Line, which will get you back to Osaka-Namba in under an hour.
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