20 best restaurants, cafés, shops and things to do in Umeda

An offshoot of the Michelin-listed noodle eatery Mugen in Fukushima ward, Zen Laboratory serves additive-free, artisanal ramen in stylish, orange-tinged surroundings. Their signature Shiro Shoyu Chuka Soba wows with a clear soup that combines chicken and seafood broth with a base stock made from delicate white soy sauce.

Another highlight is the tsukemen version, in which the whole-grain noodles are served in a cold konbu kelp broth alongside the aforementioned soup, the latter reinforced here with a few splashes of cider for a slightly sour kick that really whets the appetite.

Deep-fried skewers of meat and vegetables, kushikatsu is crispy golden goodness through and through. Savour this essential Osaka delicacy in the bowels of the labyrinthine Shin-Umeda Shokudogai, a cluster of nearly 100 small eateries and bars, where the standing-only Matsuba Sohonten has been doing brisk business for over 70 years now.

Eating here is as simple as it gets: find an open spot along the counter, grab any of the skewered delights (from ¥120) lined up on the silver trays, dip your pick in the thick, brown sauce provided and dig in. But whatever you do, remember never to sauce up the same skewer more than once – double dipping is a cardinal sin at any self-respecting kushikatsu joint.

Umeda’s ‘dancing’ udon purveyor puts a swing in diners’ steps with soft and fluffy home-style noodles available as part of classic dishes such as kake (in warm broth), kamatama (mixed with raw egg) and namajoyu (hot or cold in unpasteurised ‘raw’ soy sauce), as well as with a variety of topping combinations.

Among the latter, we like the Niku Maitake Ontama Bukkake (¥1,200), served in a nicely balanced soy sauce broth and topped with crispy maitake mushroom tempura, a soft-boiled egg and beef simmered in a sweet sauce. Alternatively, you can leave out the meat and pay only ¥900 for the flavourful deal.

You wouldn’t expect to find an authentic Neapolitan pizzeria in a shopping mall – least of all in one sitting right on top of a massive railway terminal – but we’re sure happy we came across Échi Ponte Vecchio, especially as its unlikely location comes with some perks.

An offshoot of storied Italian eatery Ponte Vecchio in Kitahama, Échi has occupied a corner of the tenth floor inside the Lucua Osaka complex next to Osaka Station since 2011. Its thin, light and perfectly puffy Naples-style pies are served from a woodfired oven imported from Italy, where the flour and several other key ingredients also come from.

Audio aficionados on the hunt for a calm hangout near Osaka Station need look no further than this café and bar dedicated to vinyl and fine whisky. Owner Tomoo Kawagoe’s set-up of vintage speakers and vacuum tube amps produces a remarkably vivid sound, and his selections from a trove of around 3,000 records – mainly jazz and soul, with the occasional Showa-era J-pop track thrown in – demonstrate impeccable taste.

Equally impressive is Kawagoe’s whisky selection, which encompasses more than a hundred bottles. Prices are reasonable, especially when it comes to premium Japanese malts: a glass of Fuji Sanroku can be had for ¥1,000, while an order of Ichiro’s Malt Chichibu will set you back ¥1,600.

Bold and hoppy IPAs, pale ales and porters make up the bulk of the liquid selection at this no-frills beer and BBQ house. Center Point has anchored Nakazakicho’s craft beer scene since 2018 and keeps turning out impeccably meat-compatible brews like the Sour IPA and the Robust Porter.

You’ll find around six house-made beers on tap at all times, while the barbecue menu lists Texas-style essentials from smoked brisket to pulled pork. We’re big fans of the coffee brisket, a painstakingly prepared slab of beef seasoned with orange peel and dark-roast coffee and charred to juicy perfection.

Chow down on soki soba, goya champuru, suchika (salted pork belly), island tacos and other Okinawan staples at what has to be Osaka’s most conveniently located eatery dedicated to cuisine from the tropical island chain. Opened back in 1997, Restaurant Okinawa is a fixture of the underground food streets underneath the Osaka Ekimae Daisan Building, just a stone’s throw from Osaka and Umeda train stations.

Don’t miss out on their rafute (¥980), a moreish braised pork belly seasoned with soy sauce, brown sugar and awamori liquor, which goes nicely with a big bowl of umibudo sea grapes (¥800).

Tucked away in the basement of a dated mixed-use building a stone’s throw from Osaka Station, this retro-futuristic coffee shop opened in 1970, the year of the Osaka Expo and at the height of the ‘space fever’ that gripped the world after the moon landing of 1969.

The menu screams ‘classic kissaten’: think hand-drip coffee, fruit sandwiches, naporitan spaghetti and toast. All food orders can be upgraded to a ‘drink set’ with coffee or tea on the side for ¥200. Alcohol is served at night (Mon-Sat 5pm-11pm), and repeat visitors can even purchase a bottle of Johnnie Walker and have the barkeeper store the opened bottle for later (ask for ‘bottle keep’).

For a break from all the takoyaki, okonomiyaki, sushi and noodles you’re bound to be eating in Osaka, take a quick walk south from Osaka Station towards Nakanoshima to find one of the city’s premier burger shops.

The brainchild of Australian transplant Pat Agostinelli, Craft Burger lives up to its name with lovingly prepared, 100-percent domestic beef patties and admirable attention to quality and detail throughout the range of staple toppings such as bacon and various cheeses. They also have a great selection of booze, including six craft beers on tap at all times and a variety of Japanese whisky-based drinks such as Hakushu highballs.

Despite Osaka having a takoyaki shop or stall on every corner, finding a joint that does something really different with the iconic dish can be a challenge. Takonotetsu fits the bill: this shop lets you cook your octopus dumplings yourself, on a purpose-made griddle mounted into your table. (Don’t worry: the staff will show you how.) On your way out, stop to check out the selection of cute takoyaki T-shirts.

Kita-Shinchi’s Michelin-starred kappo restaurant Noguchi Taro took a bold step by opening this sleek ramen joint a stone’s throw from the main restaurant. The team’s washoku pedigree and intimate knowledge of quality ingredients shine through in the signature Taro Special Ramen (¥1,280), in which straight, semi-thick whole-grain noodles are paired with a seafood-based soup made from oysters plus asari and shijimi clams and nuanced with high-end Kyoto soy sauce.

Bolder flavours are imparted by the toppings, which include pressure-cooked, thick but melt-in-your-mouth soft char siu pork and a satsuma-age fried fishcake infused with truffle and branded with the restaurant’s name. If there was ever a bowl of ramen deserving of a champagne pairing (¥2,000), it’s this one.

The basement floors of the hulking Osaka Ekimae buildings contain a sprawling cluster of tiny bars, hole-in-the-wall eateries and cafés where Osakans from all walks of life come to hide away from the world for a blissful moment. Coffee house Spanola is a relative newcomer to the complex, having relocated to the Osaka Ekimae basement in 1992, but encapsulates its nostalgic vibe perfectly.

The dark wooden furniture and cream-coloured walls match the hues of the coffee and tea served by the soft-spoken ‘master’, who sure knows his beans and leaves. You’ll find around a dozen varieties of single-origin coffee and even more different types of black tea on the menu, along with kissaten essentials like Vienna coffee (black coffee topped with whipped cream) and various fruit juices.

Daiki Ogawa’s innovative ingredient pairings make every meal at this spectacular Kita-Shinchi fusion restaurant a parade of surprises. The Italian-trained chef emphasises seasonality and interdisciplinarity, pairing Japanese ingredients with Western techniques and vice versa.

Though seating is limited to eight chairs placed along the central counter, Capi isn’t the kind of place where you’re expected to dine under tension – Ogawa is adept at making his guests feel at home and wants you to let your guard down for the duration of the roughly two-hour meal.

Packed with bars and clubs, Doyamacho is the heart of Osaka’s LGBTQ+ scene, and Explosion is the club to seek out when you’re looking to party through the night. Shows, DJ gigs and other events usually take place on the weekends, attracting a wild but friendly crowd, while weekdays see the cover charge dropped and the space turned into a glam bar with very reasonably priced drinks.

At Time Out Market Osaka, located right by JR Osaka Station, you can eat the best of the nation’s culinary capital all under one roof. The chefs manning the 17 restaurants at the Market condense Osaka’s rich food scene into a tightly curated selection of unforgettable dishes, many of them available only here.

For the thirsty, there’s a speciality coffee shop and two superb bars, serving up beer, wine, cocktails, sake, Japanese whisky and more. And alongside all that munching and imbibing, you’ll be able to experience the city’s vibrant culture through a programme of shows, gigs and other events.