What’s the vibe?
Taking cocktails out of the bar and into the dining room – it’s a trend we’re loving here at Time Out. But we’d been waiting for a place that truly put pairing and experimentation front and centre. Enter Comptoir De Vie, a new spot by Alex Francis and Barney O’Kane. Both former Little Red Door alumni and as talented as they are British, they’ve carved out a stylish bar in the heart of Montorgueil’s cocktail scene (not far from some of our other faves, Dealer, Golden Promise, Jeffrey’s or the Experimental). Expect teal and green tones, a sculptural light wood table, a large multicoloured ceramic bar and staff that really know their stuff.
What’s on the menu?
On a recent Sunday evening, we went all in: the five-course tasting menu by Irish chef Adam Purcell (€90), with six cocktails specially created to match (€55 extra). It’s a high price tag, which naturally sets high expectations – and some dishes definitely live up to it. Take the umami-packed combination of sea bream with smoked beetroot and fish roe emulsion, paired with a beet molasses eau-de-vie ‘Martini’ (house-made) and a velvety dry vermouth. Or the dessert: apple ice cream with rye miso caramel, lifted beautifully by a glass of chicory and tamarind liqueur.
Other pairings felt a bit off. The elegant glass of unpasteurised Parisian saké with Pyrenean yuzu didn’t quite hold its own alongside a slightly clumsy piece of pollack smothered in hollandaise. And the (very good) house-made Americano with Treviso bitters and vermouth felt a little too light to stand up to the richness of the pigeon in vin jaune sauce.
The verdict
Probably one of the best new cocktail bars of the year. As for the food and drink pairing – a few tweaks and it could be great.
Time Out tip
If you want the full pairing experience, booking is a must, but you can also just swing by for a drink or two (cocktails go for €15 – a steal round these parts). The only catch? The space is small and fills up quickly.