Les Paresseux

The hip and bustling Rue des Dames is also a little narrow and cramped, but there are some very cool places squeezed in behind the stacked-up scooters and crowds of smokers blocking the pavement. Opened in June 2015, wine bar Les Paresseux (‘The Sloths’) is one of these, a charming and relaxed place with a good line in sharing plates (€5-€20). Octopus salad, bottarga and chickpeas, smoked tuna with shallots and Espelette pepper, and roasted Saint-Marcellin cheese with beetroot carpaccio and walnut oil are just some of the tempting dishes listed. It’s all home made, seasonal and artisanal, and to add to the charm, it’s a family outfit – Dad makes wild boar terrine, Mum prepares North African snacks, and Auntie bakes desserts.

The food is a major draw, but things aren’t bad wine-wise either. The diverse but succinct list focuses on small producers, with a dozen reds, a dozen whites and a handful of rosés (€5-€10 a glass, €20-€50 a bottle). The patron will be more than happy to help you choose – and if like the sloth you’re reluctant to move on, you can easily make a dinner out of the ‘snack’ menu.